Building the BJJ Travel Phrasebook

About a month ago I had the idea of compiling a multilingual phrasebook for travellers interested in training, teaching, or competing in Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu around the world. BJJ is, after all, a remarkably international sport – as even a quick glance into the BJJ Globetrotters Facebook group will show – with hundreds, possibly thousands of grapplers bumping fists on mats everywhere from Ukraine to Bhutan at any point in time. I’ve been lucky enough to be able to train in 15 different countries myself, and although grappling is as close to a universal language as you’re likely to get, sometimes it would have been handy to have had some linguistic insight into what my training partners were saying other than “Ирландия? Ah, Конор Макгрегор!”

In this globalised age there’s no denying that English will get you pretty far when it comes to communication, but depending on where you are that is by no means guaranteed. And besides, learning some of the local language is an immensely satisfying aspect of travelling as well.

And with that, the idea for the BJJ Travel Phrasebook was born.

There was the occasional cup of coffee involved.

The first step was the easiest – coming up with the list of phrases that would form the basis of each chapter. For this, I basically sat down and made a note of everything I had either said or tried haphazardly to formulate when introducing myself at academies out on the road (reminding them we’d previously been in touch via Facebook, asking if there’s a drop-in fee, enquiring if they have patches or anything else I could buy as a souvenir etc.) or would have found helpful during warmups or rolling. Given the almost limitless anatomical permutations it’s possible for us twist ourselves into over the course of 90 minutes, and the almost equally wide range of academy-specific drills and routines out there, I decided to focus on the basics (pushups, situps, stretching) coupled with a list of all the core submissions, actions, and body parts. This, or so I hope, will at least enable you to pick out the key parts of an instructor/training partner’s explanations, and provide the foundation for building your own sentences if you’re feeling particularly ambitious.

Given the extent to which the international tournament scene has been growing in recent years, I also considered that someone might want to go abroad and compete, and thus want to ask officials where to weigh in or just know what that Uzbek guy’s coach is screaming at him with 30 seconds left to go in the match. Here as well, there is a considerable range of questions and minor variations thereof that might arise during the typical tournament day, but with the final list I hope to have at least laid some solid building blocks with enough vocabulary that will let you improvise if the need arises.

Once the list of phrases was in place, it was just a matter of finding people who would be able to translate them.

In a recent podcast I did with BJJ Globetrotters founder Christian Graugart, we briefly digressed from talking about polar bears and abandoned Cypriot cities to discuss the pros and cons of Facebook. Although Zuckerberg’s evil empire – and social media in general – has earned itself a deservedly questionable reputation for privacy violations and propagating countless societal hours of heads-down, timeline-scrolling monotony, there’s no doubt that it can be absolutely phenomenal as a networking tool. After several years of travelling and a handful of Globetrotters camps along the way, I have people in my friends list based everywhere from Nuuk to Ushuaia who speak languages from every major family under the sun, and who are all unfailingly passionate about this sport we share in common. So right there was my first source of input. I posted a list of suggested languages, asking if anyone would be willing to contribute roughly 30 minutes of translation work to a project that would hopefully be of benefit to the worldwide grappling community as a whole, and several hours later I already had volunteers for 14 languages in the bag.

Keeping track of languages as they came in

As that initial wave of volunteers jumped into action and the individual Google Docs began filling up with input, I started considering exactly which/how many languages I ultimately wanted to include. Initially I had intended the phrasebook to be an entirely utilitarian and pragmatic guide to navigating your way along the mats of the world, and thus my preliminary list focused almost entirely on major world or regional languages – i.e. languages you would actually need in order to communicate with the average inhabitant of a country. Thus there was German and French but no Luxembourgish, Danish but no Greenlandic, and not a single mention of Irish, Maltese, Basque, Kazakh etc., since every single inhabitant of those countries most likely speaks another, more “important” language that was already on the list.

However, after several days of thinking about exactly what I wanted this project to stand for and achieve, I realised that this was far too reductive a way of looking at things. After all, who’s to say what languages you really need out in the world? You could quite realistically spend months hitchhiking the length and breadth of Iceland without needing a single word of Icelandic other than “Takk” (possibly prefaced by “No, I’ve had quite enough hákarl for today, .…”), but does that mean Icelandic should be excluded from the list? Or Dutch, because of the universally impressive command of English in the Netherlands? Or Georgian, because most people would probably understand some Russian?

At the end of the day, a language – any language – is a living record of a people’s history, culture, struggles, and path across continents and through countless shifting borders, empires, and wars from the time it was just the mutually understood gruntings of a small group around a particular campfire. And I want them all to have a voice here, regardless of how many millions, thousands, hundreds, or dozens of people speak them in the modern world.

I went back to the list, expanded it, and opened it up to a wider audience – the BJJ Globetrotters Facebook group. By the end of the week I had doubled the amount of languages I had volunteers for, and a handful of other people that came from r/bjj or via secondary referrals bumped the final tally up to the 36 languages you can see in the first edition of the phrasebook today.

All the countries you can communicate in using the first edition of the BJJ Travel Phrasebook.

Challenges along the way:

  • Where and how to publish? Right from the very beginning, I wanted the phrasebook to be as easy to access as possible – no weird plugins or new software required for people, no signing up for accounts, and no hidden costs. After consulting with some friends that are significantly more tech-literate than me, I decided to go with Dropbox since it’s about as straightforward as it gets. It also lets me see which countries the most downloads are coming from, so I can determine if any languages/regions of the world are finding it particularly more useful than others.
  • When building the book in Adobe InDesign, there were several languages that dug their heels in and initially refused to cooperate for a variety of reasons, usually due to writing system or direction. Getting Hindi or Georgian to display correctly was just a matter of googling the right new font to install, but figuring out a way to persuade right-to-left Hebrew and left-to-right English to get along in the same place is still an ongoing struggle…

RTL vs. LTR, round 1.

Random observations and discoveries:

  • Growing up and studying Irish in school, I remember finding it strange that we used that same word for both leg and foot – “cos”. As the input for this project came in, I realised that this is the case for actually quite a few languages – where you basically have no way of verbally distinguishing between foot and leg without clear context, or just pointing. In a sport where a few inches can make a difference between an effective grip or a successful submission, I’d be curious if any coaching difficulties ever arise when you can basically only shout “50% of the human body” and hope they get which one you mean.
  • Many languages simply use the original English/Portuguese/Japanese names for techniques and positions, or else just localise them in a very minor way. Of all the various ways of cranking, twisting, and repositioning each other’s limbs that we’ve come up with though, the one thing that remains absolutely unchanged across all languages is… *drum roll* De La Riva guard. Even other stalwarts like “kimura” and “omoplata” might sometimes be described generically as some variation of “shoulder lock”, but De la Riva is De la Riva everywhere from Malaysia to Greenland.

The future of the phrasebook:

Even before the first edition of the phrasebook was online, I started thinking about what the next step(s) could be. I am most definitely going to publish a second edition at some point in the next few months, and this time I’d really love to dive in and open it up to a whole series of smaller, lesser-known languages. I already have a draft list of the ones I’d particularly like to include, and from mentioning this in passing on Facebook I even have one of the first volunteers lined up – for Māori, which is pretty fucking cool.

As well as an expanded set of languages, I’d also love to move with the times and publish the phrasebook in a more mobile-friendly format. Certainly something like an app would be much more useful than a set of crumpled printouts to the average traveller nowadays, and this is something I’m actively looking into as long as I can keep it a.) easily accessible to as many  people as possible and b.) free. In fact, there might even be something in the works there already.;-)

Lastly, I think it would be even more helpful to have some kind of pronunciation guide for each of the phrases in the book. After all, it’s one thing to send someone in to a gym in Georgia and tell to introduce themselves with “Tkvens kakakshi viknebi ramodenime dge, sheidzleba tkventan vivarjisho?”, and another thing entirely to pull that off comfortably without stumbling over half a dozen throaty Caucasian consonants along the way. I already thought about including an IPA (international phonetic alphabet) accompaniment for every phrase, but this would take a lot of additional work and ultimately in the English-speaking world there aren’t that many people that can read IPA anyway.

So I think the absolute best option would be to have an actual audio guide where you could click a phrase and hear it spoken aloud by a native speaker, Forvo-style. That way you could practice your pronunciation beforehand as many times as you like or, all comes to all, just press the button and hold it up to the person you’re trying to communicate with.

Of course, that would be significantly more work that just adding a written pronunciation guide, but it’s something I’ll definitely look into.

Stay tuned!

——-

Get the first edition of The BJJ Travel Phrasebook in PDF form here, entirely for free:

https://goo.gl/D3FKSu (Dropbox link)

I have every intention of publishing a second edition later in the year, and would really like to branch out and include more languages. If you speak any language that isn’t currently in the book and would like to contribute translations, just get in touch! Either PM me on Facebook or drop me a line at [email protected]

 

4466-the-paraestra-okinawa (1)

The Paraestra (Naha, Okinawa, Japan)

Okinawa, Japan — While in Tokyo, I decided to hop on a flight to Naha, Okinawa. Thanks to low-fare airlines, I was able to purchase my one way flight for ¥6500(~$60 USD). Okinawa has its own rich history with beautiful beaches. Compared to Tokyo which was modern and densely populated, Okinawa was mainly tourist-free and quiet. In Okinawa, I had a chance to train at Paraestra Okinawa.
 

Please don’t forget to follow me on Instagram for recent updates: @jwwseo

 

City
Okinawa consists of 160 islands and only 48 are inhabited. The capital city of Okinawa Prefecture is Naha, which is located in the southern part of the Okinawa Islands. In the past, Naha was the commercial center of the Ryukyu Kingdom. However, the city was completely destroyed during the battle of Okinawa in World War II. With its history and subtropical climate, Naha remains one of my favorite tourist attractions.

Overview
Paraestra is an MMA team that was created by former Shooto welterweight champion and Vale Tudo Japan competitor Yuki Nakai. Currently, Paraestra has multiple gyms throughout Japan and its headquarter is located in Tokyo. As it focuses on MMA, Paraestra Okinawa offered various classes including Brazilian Jiu-Jiutsu and striking classes. Also, there are a few current MMA contenders training for their future fights.

All classes were taught by Ryota Matsune, who is a Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu Black Belt and a former Shooto Featherweight Champion with a record of 16–2–1. Given that the Paraestra Okinawa is focused on MMA/Shooto, students were well-rounded. Also, the class sizes were smaller as it is located in a small town. Because of this, training sessions were intimate.

While training in Naha, Okinawa, I was lucky to meet Jon Valles, a former US Marine and a current MMA competitor, who welcomed me into Okinawa’s Jiu-Jitsu community. He was kind enough to invite me to dinner and to train Jiu-Jitsu at the US Marine Corps Camp Futenma with US Marines which will be covered in the next post. 

Paraestra Okinawa’s class structures were fairly standard with intensive body weight training. As mentioned previously, the gym is home for current MMA fighters and the level of sparring was notable. Although the gym might be in a remote location, it was worth visiting after a relaxing day with beautiful scenery of Okinawa. Also, be sure to drink a lot of water beforehand. Combined with lack of air conditioning and its tropical weather, training could be challenging.

Location
Paraestra Okinwa was located about 1.7km south of the main shopping malls and tourist attractions near Makishi Monorail Station. As a backpacker, I did not rent a car so I walked to the training facility almost everyday until I met Jon who offered me a ride to training. I would highly recommend renting a car while traveling in Okinawa or you will end up walking everywhere like I did (Google Map: Link)

Facility
Paraestra Okinawa’s facility had a small mat space and locker rooms. Unfortunately, there was no shower as the gym as it catered towards locals. The facility includes a few weight training equipment.

Schedule
Paraestra Okinawa’s schedule is posted online, but it is written in Japanese. With an assistance from my friend, Jon, I have translated the schedule for you below:

Visitor Fee
Drop-In fee for a day was ¥2000 and you can pay in cash at the gym.
<<Exchange Rate: ¥1000 =~$9.32 USD as of April 5th, 2018>>

Tourist Attractions & Food

  • Shuri Castle— The castle is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which served as a residence for Ryukyu kings until Okinawa became a Japanese Prefecture in 1879. The top of the castle overlooks Naha. I would recommend Shuri Castle’s traditional Okinawan tea and snacks while touring the castle.
  • Sunset beach (Chatan) — Chatan is located 17km north of Naha. Sunset beach is located near the Mihama American Village. The beach is pleasant and serene since it was not crowded.
  • Fukushūen — A traditional Chinese garden with a beautiful scenery. The garden was established as a symbol of the sister city relationship between Naha and the Chinese city, Fuzhou. 
  • Makishi Public Market —The most popular market district in Naha trades all sorts of Okinawan food and souvenirs. The surrounding area of the market is filled with restaurants as well. I would recommend rewarding yourself with delicious local cuisines after enjoying Okinawa’s humid tropical weather.
  • The Mihama American Village — The entertainment complex is surrounded by American military bases and it provides nostalgic pleasure to American soldiers. The complex has restaurants and shops selling American brand clothes and food. The most notable feature of the American village is its Ferris Wheel.

Hyperlinks
Google Maps
Website (Japanese)

Source
Okinawa Map

Episode 7: How to travel off the beaten path – a phone call from the Caribbean to the Arctic Circle with Ruadhán MacFadden.

Ruadhán from Ireland is an expert in traveling off the beaten path. I caught him for an interview while he was at a Polar Bear safety course in Svalbard, north of the Arctic circle and we had a long talk about his favorite American all-inclusive casino resorts and Greek island vacation package tours.


Tirana, Albania &…The Abu Dhabi Experience…

Greetings From Tirana, Albania (10-14 Sept 2017)

The bus ride to Tirana was a peaceful beautiful ride through the mountains, watching the sun shine down on the vast green fields and rocky landscapes. Leaving Ohrid and catching this bus was a bit sketchy at first. Men in plain clothes, who were apparently bus drivers and loading staff at the bus station, asked people where they were going and directed them to the according bus. Three men directed myself and an American to an unmarked and quite worn out white van which was going to be our ride to outside of town where we would catch the real bus. I knew this beforehand but I don’t think the American did as he was quite uneasy the entire time. The whole thing made me a bit uneasy and on guard as well but I’m glad I knew of this set up beforehand or I probably would have asked many questions and not been OK with it, just like the American.

After we switched to the main bus it was a scenic ride the rest of the way, in fact it was one of the most beautiful treks I’ve been on. Driving a bus through the mountains, especially an old beat up one, doesn’t sound too amazing but when you’re cresting the mountain ranges and see the sun shining down on the countryside it’s by far the best rides I’ve had. It’s even completely worth the scare of driving along a narrow road we could roll off down the mountain side with one bad turn just to see the view. The bus station in Tirana was only 10 minutes away from the hostel I was staying at so that was a bonus of not having to deal with taxis or transit there. In fact the whole time in Tirana I was able to walk around the city, although I hear there are some great sights to see outside the city limits.

The Sights

As I was staying pretty central to Tirana all the big sights to see were quite close and easy to get to. I don’t remember if there was a walking tour or not but the path I created on Google maps to see everything could easy had been a 2 hour walking tour that covers the whole city.

The Pyramid of Tirana, once a museum to Enver Hoxha now graffiti covered landmark people love climbing to the top of to take pictures.

The former residence of Enver Hoxha, a leader that kept Albania as a separate country from Communist rule but also left Albania isolated economically as the poorest country in Europe.

I passed a park with the strangest park equipment, spray painted domes raised just enough above the ground for kids to jump off of and crawl under. I was very perplexed by these so I took a closer look. It was just as I had thought, they weren’t park play toys at all, they were painted up concrete pill boxes from the wars of years past, maybe at far back as WWII. This playground was covered with kids and families having fun on a sunny day used to be a battlefield, filled with armies killing each other. Crazy to think of that.

This is actually a monument to political prisoners but throughout the park were painted pill boxes.

There’s also Skanderbeg Square, which is Tirana’s main square surrounded by museums. There was a huge party there at night during my stay, but I was way too tired after training and went to bed instead of checking it out, party animal I am.

There’s a huge parade square in front the Tirana Polytechnic University named after Saint Mother Theresa, after all her life’s work to the area. I’ve read several articles about this from different stand points as it’s quite the controversial subject. No matter where you stand on her sainthood or work it’s easy to see the place has quickly caught up in the medical and technological fields in recent years.

Tirana MMA Center

The only BJJ gym that came up in Tirana was the Tirana MMA Center. There is another gym outside of town that I never saw anyone in the Globetrotter network review and I can’t remember if they just never replied to me or if I wasn’t able to make it out to class logistically but the Tirana MMA Center was the only gym I visited. I contacted the gym through e-mail to make sure I was welcome and once I made it into to town I figured out when in the schedule I could attend a class. While walking to class I was wondering how training there would be, talking to most people while traveling there’s always some sort of stereotype of Albanians being hardcore brutes. Then again I’ve heard the same thing for Russia, Poland, Bulgaria, Macedonia, and pretty much all of eastern Europe and western Asia. As the saying goes, hard times forge hard men. In reality the gym was pretty welcoming and although I didn’t talk much with most the people no one seemed to have a grudge with having visitors at their gym.

The gym is easy enough to find off a main road, once you pass the front desk it opens up into a big square matted area with the changing rooms on the left. I changed and got on the mats to stretch and introduce myself to a few people around me. There was a general shyness, I’m guessing due to language barrier. There was an American visiting at the same time I and feel bad for completely forgetting his story, but we did talk about traveling before class. I also introduced myself to the coach, a brown belt, thinking he was the guy I was talking to online, as it happens the head instructor, a black belt, was who I talked to but he was running late. I didn’t talk with the head instructor much when he did show up other than welcoming me and wishing me to have a good time training at his gym. The brown belt ran us through a thorough warm up and I had to sit a few exercises out. It was quite the fitness class before training and I was still dealing with congested sinuses. That and my fitness sucks.

There was a Judo black belt at the gym as well and class started with working different Judo throws from takedown attempts for BJJ. As these throws and takedowns were a bit different for me I had several questions, mostly about leg or arm placement as I always seem to be landing on one of my limbs. In true classical Judo form the Judo black belt didn’t seem to understand my questions for moving the limbs out of the way or maybe placing them differently while the BJJ instructor understood and agreed I could get the same result. It’s no insult to the Judo instructor but I find a lot of classically trained Judo players only train each throw for the one grip or body placement with very little variation meanwhile the very thing that has propelled BJJ to succeed is the openness to variation and modification so that everyone can make the technique work. Then again it could be just that these movements were new to me and I was moving very clunky and stepping over myself. With more training perhaps I could get used to them and work these techniques just as the Judo instructor showed.

The students were quite keen for rolling when it became time, I remember having a few rolls, one with the American, and I forget who else, I think it was a higher belt (I really should have kept notes on this to give you better stories, something I’m doing now actually.) and I mostly just tried to survive the matches. One younger guy, a fellow blue belt I think I remember, who was quite athletic and energetic wanted to roll with me and I could see he wanted to really test himself against me. I had to decline as it was the end of the class and I was quite worn out already. I wouldn’t mind tapping to him, it was more the danger of being hurt while trying to defend against his youthful exuberance hunting for a submission. I did however enjoy watching him fight the higher belts and give them a hard time. I’m sure he’ll be making it somewhere in this sport if he keeps it up.

All and all it was a fun time training there, a few of the guys opened up to me after class as we were changing, a few even got pictures with me. Just another case of a gym being shy because of language barriers and Jiu-Jitsu closing that gap. To be honest I don’t know if they were more impressed by my stories of traveling and training all over the world or my tattoos all over my body, as I got equal amounts of questions for either. After all of this I ended up no pictures (I don’t know what happened, I remember taking some, but they must’ve gotten deleted or corrupted or something. Anyways, no pictures of this training experience, sorry) to post with this story but I can mark Tirana MMA Center as another place I stopped off along this Odyssey and made new friends.

The Abu Dhabi Experience…(14-16 Sept 2017)

Before I knew it my time to leave had come and I was on to my next adventure. My next stop was Yangon, Myanmar (formerly Burma) and that was going to be a long flight to get to. I found if I stopped off along the way I could find cheaper tickets, even including hotel stay. So with that information I booked a one night stay over in Abu Dhabi, with intent on getting a class in at non other than the ADCC HQ itself. My plans were I would fly in, get a nap, get out and maybe see a bit of the city before training, have a nice rest and catch my flight the next evening on my way to Yangon. Plans did not work out like that. In any way. At all. I did not get any training in and it ended up costing me way more money…

My flight heading out of Tirana was in the evening, an overnight flight to Abu Dhabi. I got not near as much sleep as I wanted and was dead tired when I get into the airport. Luckily I booked a cheap room at the airport hotel, unluckily I arrived at 5am and I couldn’t check in until 11 and had to wait until 7 before I could even check and see if, at an extra fee, I could check in early. There was a coffee shop next to the hotel lobby so I used the free wifi and grabbed a tea and waited. Finally it was 7 and I was was allowed to check in early, it was not a cheap extra fee but I desperately needed rest or I wouldn’t be able to train later. I paid the fee, got to my room and passed out for a few hours.

Flying out of Tirana, on my way to another adventure.

As soon as I woke up I began looking for class schedules or contacts and couldn’t find either. The United Arab Eremites Jiu-Jitsu Federation, or UAEJJF site, the main and as far as I can tell only site for the gyms in Abu Dhabi, is great for latest news in the federation and has a list of all the clubs in Abu Dhabi. But they don’t have any address or class schedule information, with only a name and phone number at most. My friend Aaron from Tokyo was helping me out to find a class and set me up with a contact in Abu Dhabi, but as it happens I had the misfortune of showing up on a Friday, which is their religious rest day, a day of prayer, not training. All this planning and I made the misstep of not even thinking about the gyms not having classes on religious days. I actually can’t believe I never thought to look into religious days of places I was visiting, especially a place like the UAE. After talking with the contact back and forth we found there was one gym open that day, but it was in Dubai, which is a 4 hr bus trip away that I would have to catch it in the next 20 mins. That was just not feasible. So I wrote and rested and although I was down that I would be missing training while in Abu Dhabi I at least got to relax in a nice hotel room for 24 hrs. I also had the joy of trying the McDonald’s chicken Big Mac, it was delicious and almost made up for everything. Almost.

The next morning I woke up rested and left the hotel ready to get going to Yangon. I went to check in for my flight and was stopped by the flight attendant. She asked me my final destination and e-mails for those tickets. Then she asked me for a Visa for my next connection. I was flying into Bombay and did not have a Visa for it. I wouldn’t need a Visa had I not had checked luggage but since I did and had to re-check in with a different airline there I would need a Visa to pick up my bag and check it in. This is something I did not account for as I had read different accounts that a transit Visa was available on arrival for making international connections without problem. The airline company did not have this information and could not let me board without a Visa. This was a big problem.

Flying into Istanbul for a quick connection.

The flight attendants made as many calls as they could to try and get me on the flight and even tried calling the flight company that booked my flights to see if they could help, but to no avail. I would like to say that Quantas, although in my opinion messed up on this and should have let me on my flight have great customer service for trying to help me out and making many calls to make sure they weren’t making a mistake, although I really don’t think anyone looked it up and just gave their opinions. kiwi.com on the other hand is a shit service whose only customer service is starting and ending every sentence with “it’s not our responsibility” without attempting to help in any way. I have had the unfortunate experience of booking 2 flights with Kiwi.com and after those experiences I will say it is the by far the worse company out there to get cheap tickets. It’s like they intentionally make it an unpleasant flight for you that will most likely end in your paying extra for things they missed. I personally will never use them again and hope no one reading this uses them either.

So I was stuck in Abu Dhabi airport with no other choice but to buy a new ticket that included not stopping in India or any place I needed a Visa and which costed me an additional $700. I was no longer saving $300 in this stop and with no Jiu-Jitsu or even any sight seeing this was a very upsetting and disappointing stopover. Later, when I was making plans to head back to Europe from Asia I thought of stopping in Dubai to get in some training and make up for this stop over, but decided I’m better off not bothering with this hassle again, my budget was stretched thin and I wouldn’t be able to afford another expensive surprise like this again. One day I will return and see the United Arab Eremites and it’s beautifully constructed cites and top notch BJJ gyms, but not during this Odyssey.

Happy to be in Abu Dhabi, little did I know what 'fun' awaited...

And after all the adventures of traveling through Adu Dhabi I was done visiting Europe, for now, and on my way to my first stop in Asia: Yangon, Myanmar.

Until next time,

see you on the mats!

OSSS!!

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Winter Camp 2018 – Armlock attack from sidecontrol with Michael Pedersen

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Winter Camp 2018: Sweeps with Robson Barbosa

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Winter Camp 2018: Half guard with Oliver Geddes

    • Oliver Geddes Website
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