USA, N.Y./Boston. Living in the wilderness of New York.

I just finished a week of intense training in the Caribbean and I had already started thinking about my next camp in USA, Maine. My final destination of this 3 months journey. My body was however feeling it, I had pushed myself past my limits. All my joints ached and I had no gas  on my tank. I knew if I was to be ready for the next camp I had to take it a little slower until then. Luckily I had planned 2 weeks in the States with some of my good friends from the El Salvador camp and it shouldn’t to rough of a schedule.

I flew into N.Y. city and it was as crazy as I remembered it. I took the subway to my bus station, forgetting Rachel’s warning about that. In the subway I sat down in the corner and noticed a clearly drunk, muscular homeless man clinching a spring together for excersice. I looked to my right in search for help and next to me was another man who was doing all kinds of creepy twisting motions while mumbling to himself. In all my travels through Central America and supposedly some of the more dangerous countries in the world I felt the most unsafe in the subway system in New York.

I arrived in the middle of the night to Binghamton, upstate N.Y. and was greeted by one of Rachel’s infamous hugs. It was really nice to see an familiar face. I crashed at her house for a few days, enjoying her hospitality to the fullest. I felt like a king after all those hostels nights. Rachel had planned a camping trip in the middle of nowhere in the forest. She really wanted to proof to me there was more to N.Y. then the city. Trust me, she did. It was beautiful, we went hiking, we ate all the typical American Camping treats and drank loads of beer. Perfect way to wind down after all that training the week before.


We worked our way to Boston where our friend Bianca had offered us to stay for a few days. We stayed with her and her family and their hospitality was off the chart. I got filled up with food and my body was finally starting to recover. I was able to teach a class at her gym, Florian MMA center, on judo for BJJ.

Now arriving in Maine I feel refreshed and ready for an good week of intense training. My schedule was nice and for these two weeks. I only trained 4 times in these weeks and it left me with withdrawals from BJJ. It’s going to be good week here in Maine.

 

Finding our feet.

Hello hello everyone!

I would like to first of all thank Christian and the Globetrotters team for sponsoring us on our travels. We are absolutely honored to be able to represent BJJ Globetrotters on our way around the world and look forward to meeting all the amazing people along the way.

Before I get into the meat of the blog, i’ll give a quick background as to who we are.

Katherine and I both grew up on dairy farms in the small rural town of Ruawai, New Zealand.

Katherine is a full time Early Childhood Teacher and I work in the agricultural sector. We spend most of our time fishing, diving and as of 2 years ago, BJJ!!

This is a 15kg kingfish caught off the Northland coast and it made some great smoked fish.

We started training BJJ around 2 years ago out of Fightshop in Palmerston North, NZ. I remember my first week of rolling being both incredibly exciting and terrifying. Learning to do my first collar choke was a surreal experience. It took some getting used to let someone I had only just met put on a choke and trust that they will respect the tap.

After around a year of training we decided to enter our first competition. This was the 2016 Wellington Gi Regionals. I managed to not get subbed but lost to points and Katherine managed to come home with a silver medal!

We now train out of myBJJ Whangarei under Professor James Cherrie.

When we decided to take a break from normal life and go see some of the world, I was worried that we would have to put BJJ on hold. Luckily for me we had a BJJ Globetrotter Anthony Panaioli training at the gym who gave me the whole insight as to what Globetrotters is all about. A quick google search later and all my worries had disappeared!!

Our travel so far!

After a few weeks of fishing, diving, BBQs and rolling we flew out of NZ late April on a one way ticket to London. We spent the first week getting over the jet lag of the worlds longest flight (Auckland to Doha – 17hours 40mins). It wasn’t as bad as we thought it would be, Qatar airways were fantastic.

We chilled out at a family members house in Worcester, checking out the local pubs and planning a 2 week trip around the UK.

After a few days in Liverpool, we were off to Scotland. Here we decided to hire a car and spent a few days driving around on a castle hunt, where we found them everywhere. Now, being a fan of Braveheart, we had to visit the William Wallace memorial.

Behind me here is where the battle of Stirling happened.

We spent the next few days hanging out in Edinburgh, where I found a few great whisky pubs! This place has to be one of the most beautiful cities in the world (thus far….) and the people of Scotland were amazing.

Now back to London, on an over night bus :(.

London is a great city for a tourist. It is well set up, there are a ton of sights to see and museums to visit, and the tube system is fantastic! The one thing I didn’t like were the 5 pound pints!

Where to next? A small village in the south of Spain called Jimena De La Frontera via Malaga. We stayed with the same family members as we did in Worcester and were lucky enough to be invited to stay a week or so. We flew into first and decided to stay a few nights in Malaga in a hostel right on the beach. This was a great change from the UK climate, where the temperature stayed in the high 20.C. We stayed here for a few nights, checked out the local markets, took a swim right outside the hostel (not quite confident to strip off like the locals haha), and got introduced to dirt cheap food and beers, before heading down to Jimena.

Now that we were out of the rat race on London I had a look around for a local gym. However, before I could get my Gi on and hit the mats, I was hit with a terrible case of the man flu, or as they call it in Spain, El Man Flu. This had me bed ridden for two days and off the mats.

The next week or so were spent in Jimena, with a few day trips to see some sights, even on to Gibraltar. This small village in the south of Spain was a great little retreat, and after a day or two of 1 Euro tapas and cervezas, I was back to full strength! Now being a small village, there were no BJJ facilities to be found, but using a little ingenuity we managed to have a roll around on the front porch. Due to the tiles it was more of a very slow flow roll, but we managed a few sweeps and subs, and it was just enough to scratch our itch!

From here we took a long train ride to Barcelona and checked in few a couple of nights. Fantastic city, although the tapas and cervezas doubled in price haha.

Now I was determined to find a gym, and I managed to find Atos Barcelona were I was greeted by the very friendly Gustavo Galvao. Now I don’t speak much Spanish, and they didn’t speak much English, but that didn’t matter. As Gustavo was teaching an arm bar on someone in the turtle, I was easily able to follow along and ask questions. Then it hit me, we shared the language of Jiu Jitsu. It might sound funny but i’m sure a lot of you understand exactly what I mean.

It was fantastic to be able to attend a class at a world renowned gym and roll with some absolute savages! My new BJJ Globetrotters Gi was amazing to roll in. Very light which was great in the Spanish heat, however, it is a little tight around the waist haha, might need to cut down on the beers!

Now, we are traveling on a shoe string, trying to keep costs down and go where prices are low. We were hoping to head up to Amsterdam via Paris, but instead we flew to Warsaw. This was due to a few reasons. Firstly, western Europe is expensive if you don’t book ahead, which we didn’t. Secondly, eastern Europe is cheap and you don’t really need to book ahead to far. And thirdly, Poland is a cool place that I have always wanted to visit.

I am writing this, my first ever blog about anything, in a hostel in Krakow. I’m jamming to some Foos and sipping a Polish beer I found for around half a Euro. Tomorrow we are off to Auschwitz to get a history injection no amount of time in school could ever give you. Might need to get something stronger to drink tomorrow night. Or roll. I think I might roll. There are a few gyms in Krakow so hopefully they wont mind a couple of Globetrotters gate crashing a class tomorrow afternoon!

Anyway, that’s enough from me. We don’t have a very detailed plan for the rest of our trip, who knows where we will end up! All we know is we want to see a lot of the world, meet some cool people and roll at a wide variety of gyms!

Cheers,

Jamie and Kathey :)

Bon Voyage!

Life in a suitcase. 

It’s a weird feeling packing your life into a suitcase. It’s nerve-wracking but strangely liberating freeing yourself of possessions that you don’t really need. What should I take? What should I leave? Surely I can just wear less clothes, and take more training gear? Surely. 

After about 4 re-packs I’m done and ready to fly.

All of my possessions ruthlessly limited to a suitcase’s contents – half of which are gis, rash guards and shorts. The essentials.

I say my goodbyes to the family, give my dogs an extra-long hug, check my bags and take a deep breath. 12 months of working 6/7 days a week and saving every penny I’ve earned have come down to this. It’s a nice feeling when you finally get to set off on journey you’ve daydreamed about for so long.  

“Bangkok ready” 

My first stop is Thailand – not for long, just a couple of days to break up the travel to Europe. I’m staying just around the corner from the Bangkok Fight Lab, so I spend most of my time there training and acclimatising to my lack of routine and responsibilities. And the humidity. My GOD Bangkok is hot. Not like Australia, where it’s a dry heat that’s manageable. It’s a suffocating heat, worsened by the intermittent rain storms. But hey, at least I’m not in the office! 

My first class at the Fight Lab is taught by Morgan, a Pedro Sauer Black belt. I can’t speak highly enough of Morgan and his teaching style. I really enjoyed the class and his attention to the details, and emphasis on the importance of technique. We drilled a sequence that I’d been having trouble with, added some cool submissions and then decided to roll. 

It was then I realised how important it was to focus on technique in Bangkok. Wearing a gi in the midday heat in Bangkok gave me some serious weight cutting flashbacks. A humbling experience.

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That evening’s session involved some fine-tuning of the positions, some drills and then some great rolls. After training we all went down to the food markets, had some food and chat. I love how welcoming jiuijteiros are. You’re exposed such a diverse cross-section of people, from all walks of life: people with different backgrounds, occupations and stories, who all share a common passion. I was made to feel very welcome by everybody for which I’m greatly appreciative. We shared stories and food, a pleasant night cut short by some heavy tropical rain.

The next day I go set out from the hostel and wandered through the urban jungle that is Bangkok. I love how big cities in Asia embrace make chaos work. You’re confronted by so much stimulus as you walk down the street. Smells, sounds, heat, trucks, chickens, food, street vendors. So much crammed into a small place, yet there’s a weird harmony in the way that it all works. I’m struck by the melting pot of cultures too. Small buildings with giant satellite dishes attached. A street vendor selling fruits, vegetables and local food outside a 7/11 selling ice-creams and Coca Cola.

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That evening was Nogi taught by Thien, before I flew out. Thien is a brown belt who’s trained in London. The night before we’d chat about leg locks, and he was nice enough to tailor the session around single-leg X guard, Ashi Garami and some cool high-guard sequences inspired by Nathan Orchard. Again, it was an opportunity for me to work on and make adjustments to weaknesses in my game – and work on positions that I love.

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I’ve only been away for two days at this point and I’ve already learned so much. Being exposed to different training partners and teaching styles is already benefiting me greatly. After class we rolled for about an hour and a half, working on techniques and doing some cool positional sparring. It was a great class, a great experience and I made some great friends in a short time. 

For anybody travelling through Thailand, I’d definitely recommend stopping in at the academy. They’re welcoming and have a great style of teaching for all levels from beginners through to advanced.  After nogi it’s straight on the sky-train to the airport, to begin the next stage of the Journey… Stay tuned.  

North Carolina Two-a-Days

After training at Roots Athletics in Philly on Tuesday, I made a B-Line to my next destination: Washington D.C.. I hadn’t been to the capital since 2005, and was ready to do some sight seeing! I’d slept the night before in my Jeep at Maryland House, a rest stop off I-95S about an hour north of D.C.. After the two training sessions from the day prior, I decided to spend my Wednesday unicycling around the city, visiting monuments and museums along the way. I got some great photos, saw the monuments I cared about, and visited the National Zoo. If you’re ever in Washington D.C., go to the zoo. It was absolutely incredible and, considering it’s free entry, hard to pass up. 

 

My preferred method to getting around cities.

 

At the end of my day in D.C., I started driving south to North Carolina, where I’d planned to train at Chapel Hill Gracie Jiu Jitsu the next morning. It had been years since training at a Royce Gracie affiliate, so I was unsure of what to expect, but I was soon to be pleasantly surprised. On my way out of Washington, I may or may not have nearly lost my gi pants. Pro tip: if you put something on top of your car, make sure you grab it before driving away… otherwise, it’ll fly off your car at 50 mph and necessitate you stopping in rush hour traffic on a bridge.

 

The only photo I got at Chapel Hill: I was too busy training to grab more!

 

After spending a rainy night in my car in a Walmart parking lot just 10 minutes from the gym, I arrived at a clean, southern strip mall. All I could see was a sign that said, “Gracie Jiu Jitsu”, and assumed that’s where I was going! I walked in the doors to quite a sight: to my left and straight ahead was a professional looking kickboxing gym setup. To my right? A mixture of green Gracie mats, roll-out mats, and other miscellaneous mats. I was excited. I was greeted by Tim Hufford, an ex-military, Royce Gracie purple belt who is one of the main instructors at Chapel Hill Gracie Jiu Jitsu. He apologized for the appearance of the mats; turns out they’d finished an expansion of the gym not three weeks earlier, and were still waiting on the new mats to arrive! He pointed me towards the locker room, and I went and got suited up!

Class at CHGJJ was pretty informal. No bowing in, no formal warm ups, just diving into jiu jitsu. There was something to be said about this “no frills” approach to the class. I spoke to Tim and Dwayne, their 350 lb., 6’7” blue belt, about this after class. Tim said, “This is advanced class. These guys aren’t here for politics, gym drama, etc. They’re here for jiu jitsu, and they’re here to train.” I loved it. I partnered up with another blue belt, Steve, and we drilled the armbar sequence we were working that day. The class consisted of eleven people; three white belts, three blue belts, three purple belts, and two brown belts. Tim showed us some armbar finishes; one when you break the grip towards the hip, and one when you break it towards the head. He went over a few different grip break options, as well as the importance of wrist locks in relation to attacking an arm bar.

“An armbar is just a wrist lock I didn’t finish.”, he said.

The one detail that stood out for me was with a particular grip break. It involved taking your hand that’s close to their hip, looping it under the arm you’re attacking, posting with the other hand, pressuring in, and sliding your hips under their shoulder blade to turn them away. It’s a detail I’d seen dozens of times in the past four years, but it finally clicked. 

After class cleared out, I hung around with Tim and one of the blue belts, Dwayne. Dwayne is one of those guys you find at every gym: the BIG guy. At 6’7”, weighing 350 lbs, Dways was by FAR the biggest guy I’ve ever rolled with. I tried everything in my toolbox, but I couldn’t move him. We chatted about jiu jitsu, competition, my trip, and everything in between. They were incredibly kind fellas, and I’m glad I got to train with them!

After a quick shower, I hopped in the Jeep to drive to my next destination: Charlotte, North Carolina! Driving through the tailwinds of the Appalachians was beautiful, and a drive everyone should do given the chance! I was en route to train at an Atos affiliate in Charlotte; Fernando Loor Vera Jiu Jitsu.

 

A little panoramic action from ATOS Charlotte: Simple, but that’s all we needed.

 

Fernando’s gym is located inside a massive fitness facility on South Tyron Street in Charleston. Class was taught by Fernando Loor Vera himself, an IBJJF Certified Referee and Black Belt under Gilbert Burns. 

When I first stepped on the mat for the 7:15pm NoGi class, I was excited to finally don my nogi attire for the first time on my trip. I’m typically more interested in gi jiu jitsu, but I do train NoGi on occasion to both keep my skills up without the gi and get in a good workout; the faster pace guarantees some fun, scrambly rounds.

I was greeted by one of FLV’s blue belts, a guy named Mike. He asked about my trip, my sponsorship with BJJGlobetrotters, my plans, etc. He was very genuine in his questions, and even hooked me up with a few packages of some finger tape that his company produces: TapTape! Apparently, TapTape is sold on Amazon and is the #1 rated tape they sell… for rock climbing, interestingly enough. It’s the best finger tape I’ve used: it’s not quite as sticky as MonkeyTape, but is even more durable. The tape comes in 15 yard rolls and are cut to 1/3 inch; the PERFECT size for taping your fingers. They don’t have a website up just yet, but I’ll be happy to send his contact information to anyone interested. Just comment below!

 

This very generous gift is amazing. AWESOME job, Mike. Your product is second to none.

 

Class started with something I’m not used to: a yoga warm-up. This was extraordinarily pleasant, and is something I’d take back to my home gyms. This was followed by some dynamic warmups with calisthenics. The humidity tore through my northern blood, and I was drenched by the time I finished warm ups.

For drilling, I paired up with one of their blue belts: Johnny. We drilled the knee cut pass followed by spinning to the back. Drilling was very structured: you do twenty, I do twenty. I really liked the structured nature of the class, and it definitely added to the experience! 

Technique-wise, Fernando showed us some key details in using Reverse De la Riva to defend the knee cut pass. He went over Kiss of the Dragon details (which I desperately needed) and a calf crush/back take from RDLR. After about 50 minutes of drilling, it was time to roll! There were nine people in class including myself and Fernando, and I rolled with everyone. Something I noticed about the southern grapplers I’ve encountered is the perpetuity towards scrambles. I’m very position oriented: I get to a spot, maintain position, then move on to the next. I’ve noticed with the southern grapplers that there’s a big focus on scrambling; moving faster than your opponent can defend. It was a breath of fresh air, and I had a blast! I caught a roll with Fernando, and promptly got smashed. He gave me some tips after the roll about using my feet to post on their hips when using my open guard: I’d heard this before, but hearing it from him really drove the point home.

Class ended with a yoga cooldown and a pyramid set of calisthenics very similar to what I encountered at Roots in Philly. My chest burned, my hips cramped, and my body wanted to give out, but I kept going. Fernando said,

 

“This is when diamonds are created. Diamonds don’t happen when you’re comfortable: they happen under pressure!”

 

Class ended, and everyone swiftly left the mats. I was invited by Fernando to join the crew at a nearby biker bar, Mac’s Speed Shop, for their weekly Thursday post-training outing. I’d intended on getting on the road to Nashville, but gladly took them up on their offer. I’m incredibly glad I did: the food was amazing, the guys were awesome, and the conversation was non-stop. We talked about jiu jitsu, Mike’s tape business, my hobbies outside jiu jitsu (I showed them some card tricks: Fernando called me a witch. Fun times!), and had extensive conversations about how jiu jitsu is evolving. 

 

Many thanks for letting me train, fellas. Looking forward to crossing paths again: Oss!

 

Although I’m barely a week into my trip, I’m already making memories that will last a lifetime. I left Mac’s feeling amazing about the journey ahead. I drove about an hour before crashing at a truck stop near Sieverville, South Carolina. The next day was planned to be filled with climbing in Chattanooga, but plans change. More on that in my next post! Until then: Happy Memorial Day everyone! Go train!

First Gym on the Road: Roots Athletics in Philly!

I’m on the road, and it’s about time! This post is a few days overdue, but driving 1,000 miles in four days takes up way more time than one would anticipate. Let’s dive into my first week on the road! I trained at a number of gyms this week, but this post is going to focus on the first gym I stopped at away from home: Roots Athletics.

Tucked away off Brandywine Street in Historic Philadelphia, a small crew of incredibly dedicated, talented athletes has taken up shop at Roots Athletics. I actually first heard about Roots almost a year ago after seeing a Jits Magazine post about one of their then-blue belts, Morgan Beverly. Morgan had been in the process of starting up here YouTube channel/vLog that she’d dedicated to her jiu jitsu life. From her YouTube, I’d ended up following her on Instagram and, in the process, saw how inherently beautiful her gym was. 

Although I’ve lived in the greater New York City area my entire life, I’d never made the two-hour journey to my former nation’s capital of Philly. Although the thought of Philly Cheesesteaks combined with a number of “Rocky” viewings stirred my curiosity about visiting, the opportunity never arose to take a trip. Finally, when planning my trip, it just seemed natural that I’d stop in Philly along the way.

I left New Jersey on Tuesday morning after spending the last few days for a while with my girlfriend. Although the goodbye was tearful, there was an immense curiosity and excitement that rumbled in my belly. I had Facebook messaged Roots the previous day asking if I could come by for their 11 a.m. Gi class; they swiftly responded saying they’d be happy to have me. I drove into Philly right around 10:30 and found the gym by 10:45 after getting turned around once or twice. I’m used to driving in Manhattan, but Philly was a different ballgame.

I walked into the gym and was impressed by the sheer cleanliness of the school: the pristine white mats, the full apparel shop right when you walk in, the plants that added a touch of clean ruggedness to the aura, etc. Everything had a place, and every place had a thin4g.

I was greeted by a number of students sitting by the front desk who were getting ready for class. Kyle, one of the senior purple belts, introduced himself and had me fill out a waiver before showing me to the locker room. I got changed, took a breath, and stepped on the mats. 

The head instructor, Levi LeBlond, introduced himself, asked a few questions about my trip and the Globetrotters blog, and seemed thoroughly interested in everything I was doing with my journey; I could tell this was a guy who truly cared about those who he taught (even if they weren’t his regular students!) I was then introduced to Professor Gilson Fernandes, an intense (but incredibly kind) Brazilian who I’d soon find out was Levi’s instructor. As it turns out, I’d come into town on the second day of Gilson’s three-day stretch in Philly, during which he was teaching classes at Roots!

 

Professor Levi (in blue) and Professor Gilson (in white). Photo Credits to Kyle Huang!

 

Overall, the 10am class was very typical of most BJJ classes I’ve taken: a short calisthenic warm up, positional drilling, then rolling at the end of class. There were about nine people, ranging from white belts to purple belts. Although the class was typical, I was struck by how GOOD these guys and girls were. The everyone, even the newer white belts, had incredible top pressure, tight open guard games, positional awareness I’d only dreamed of at white belt, and so on. I found myself struggling as their games matched mine very similarly; spider guard, De la Riva, RDLR, etc. It was a strange feeling, having my game so similarly matched, but an amazing one nonetheless. 

 

Drilling knee cuts! Photo Creds: Kyle Huang

 

After class ended, Professor Levi thanked me for coming and asked if I’d be back for that night’s 7pm Competition Class. I hadn’t planned on training twice that day, and had planned on seeing as much of the city as I could before heading to Washington D.C. the next day, but I accepted the invitation gladly. Morgan joked, “You should probably write your Globetrotters blog before comp class!” and then mimicked some struggled typing. We all got a good chuckle out of that. I went to the bathroom, showered, and headed off to see the city! Before I left, I’d asked Levi if I could wash my Gi in one of the washers in the locker room. He told me to drop my Gi in the hamper and that they’d have it ready for me when I got back to class that night. 

Before walking out the door, I asked the room full of Philadelphia natives a slightly controversial question: “Where am I getting my Philly Cheesesteak?”

I was met with a number of suggestions, but the unanimous winner was Jim’s on South Street. Well, Jim’s on South Street, you were about to meet a cheesesteak fiend. I drove the ten minutes from the gym to South St. and parked around the corner from Jim’s. South Street was quite the sight: thrift shops, food shops, oddities stores, and even the so-called “Condom World”. The thought popped into my head how lucky I was to be living my dream. 

 

A Philly staple! Next time, I’ll get the whiz.

 

I walked into Jim’s, ordered my PCS with Provolone (not a fan of Cheese Whiz, Sorry friends!), got my sandwich, and went to dig in. My thoughts? The sandwich was good, but slightly disappointing. The steak was dry and slightly lacking in flavor. I might have made the mistake of not getting whiz. Oh well. Live and learn!

No trip to Philly would be complete without the Rocky steps. I drove across town, parked my car, and within minutes was standing at the base of the Philadelphia Art Museum. I took the sight in, and left without running up the steps. There was something about the droves of middle school field trips that made running up the steps seem, I don’t know, cheesy. If I was gonna do it, it was gonna be wearing grey sweats and a winter hat in the dead of winter. 

I walked back to my car and, having a few hours to kill, decided to organize my car a little bit. I’ll be doing a full rundown of my excursion Jeep soon, so stay tuned! With an hour and a half left before class, I decided to take a last minute trip to see some of the more historical parts of Philly: Independence Hall and the Liberty Bell. I’ve never been much of a fan of tourist centrals, but I DO love American History. 

I walked back into the gym for 7pm class, grabbed my clean Gi, suited up, and stepped back on the mats. I was surprised to see that the class was being taught by Professor Gilson; he’d only watched the morning class. Little did I know, I was in for quite the ringer. Warm Ups seemed to go on forever: a short calisthenic workout was superseded by 15 minutes of non-stop standup drills. Standing grip breaks, double leg entries, judo throw entries, sprawls, etc. By the end of warming up, I was drenched with sweat. My eyes burned as sweat drained from my bald head into my eyes, my lungs burned as they struggled for oxygen, my legs and hips cramped. This was only the beginning.

Professor Gilson had us split up into teams of three. He emphasized that, although jiu jitsu is a very personal sport, teamwork is imperative to success. In fact, it’s so imperative that, in one teammate fails, so does everyone else. One person was instructed to lay on their back with their knees up. Another teammate was told to stand in front of the person on the ground. The person standing was told to remove their belt and give it to the third person. The third person then wrapped the belt around the standing teammate. The standing teammate was told to try and pass the guard of the person on their back, and the third team member was to pull on the belt to keep that from happening. The person on their back was to avoid having their guard passed using only hip movement, inversions, frames, etc., but NO grips. Essentially, one person was wrangling a bull, and the bull was trying to catch the rodeo clown. The catch? If the person on their back had their guard passed, not only would THEY have to do 20 push ups; the person holding the guard passer would as well. When one fails, so does everyone else. 

The rest of competition class consisted of these “partner-fails, everyone-fails” drills. Professor Gilson would joke, “Now I’m going to make you guys hate me just a little. But I promise! It’s the last one. I Promise.”

It was never the last one. 

We did an incredibly entertaining drill which Gilson said he would use at his academy in Brazil for upper belts who were competing in the near future. An upper belt would choose two lower belts; a brown belt would chose a blue belt and a white belt, for example. The brown belt was told that the two lower belt were going to attack them at the same time. Their goal? Submit the lower belts. The goal for the lower belts? Kill the brown belt. This drill was incredible, and something I hope to bring back to my home gym one day.

 

Catching a breath during class.

 

Finally, after almost an hour and fifteen minutes of torturous drilling, it was time to roll. The room was tense. People were struggling to breathe; grown men and women pushed to their limits, trying to hold themselves up. Gasping for water. What was most incredible, however, was the teamwork. If you tried sitting down? Someone would come pick you up. If you stopped walking? Someone would grab your Gi and get you moving again. It was pure, and it was what jiu jitsu was about. 

Professor Gilson stood in the middle of the circle and said through his thick, Brazilian accent, “You’re all tired. You can no use strength. Now is when jiu jitsu happens.” We were about to roll, yes. But, more importantly, we were about to do jiu jitsu. We partnered up and started rolling. I was struck again by how technical these students were. I was inspired, and really felt welcome. I rolled with a brown belt, three purple belts, a blue belt, and two white belts. When rolls ended, I assumed class was over. Wrong again.

“Time for cooldowns. Circle up!” boomed Levi’s voice.

Uh Oh. Cooldowns consisted of a pyramid set of calisthenic drills/exercises; sprawls, sit ups, push ups, and mountain climbers. It was simple, but deadly. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10, next exercise. 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9, next exercise. All the way down to 1-1-1-1. It seems that every competition class has some type of extra bit thrown in at the end of it. I’m starting to realize that this is the “Mental Toughness” part of jiu jitsu. You push yourself to the absolute limit, then push yourself more. You don’t give up until you need to be dragged from where you collapse. 

After cooling down, everyone in class circled up and put their hands in. The feeling of camaraderie was overwhelming. I was pulled into the circle as if I was a regular part of the family. I’ve always known that jiu jitsu was a universal language, but this was something more. Jiu Jitsu builds families. In that moment, I wasn’t a stranger; I wasn’t just some blue belt coming in to train; I was family. 

 

The OG Roots crew. Thanks again for letting me train everyone!

 

Here’s a HUGE thanks to everyone at Roots Athletics for letting my come train. Thank you for pushing me and thank you for training! The crew at Roots is already making huge strides on the competition scene; Morgan and Kyle are heading off to Worlds in a few days, already reeling from wins at the New York and Boston Open, as well as F2W Pro fights. I asked Levi in the locker room after class regarding what makes his gym so different from others in Philly. Simply put, he said:

“We offer and experience no one else does. We’re trying to bring Jiu Jitsu into 2017.”

I’d say they’ve already succeeded. Thanks again fellas!

 

Photo Credits: There were a ton of photos I didn’t find a place for in this post, but for most of the good pictures in this post were done by Kyle Huang. Follow him on Instagram @kylehuangphotography_ for some awesome material!

London UK Part 2

Greetings From London…Again!

I’m back in London! This time around I stayed with a BJJ Globetrotter rather than a hostel, although I did stay at a hostel the first few nights, but more on that later. It was an uneventful train down to London, I checked into the hostel then I was off to my first gym to visit, and to film the interview for this article with an idol of mine. But before we get into that let’s cover the sights I saw and friends I made.

Seeing More of The Sights

This time around I made a list of places in London I wanted to make sure I saw, before it was easy  hitting the big landmarks like Buckingham Palace and the London Tower and Big Ben. But there are many other places worth seeing, I could probably spend another month in London and still not see everything, certainly not train at all the gyms. Anyways, it was a nice day out and I decided to set out and see a few sights and trek around the city. Camden Market, which I had heard so much about, was first on the list. I could see gentrification had made the place a trendy tourist spot but there was still a lot of the old flavour to it and still a lot of fun to walk around.

The street life.

Camden Lock. You can watch the tour boats go through the lock as they operate them by hand.

Next up was Abbey Road, the iconic crossing in front of the Abbey Road Studios made famous by the Beatles and their album cover crossing the road. It’s a really busy intersection full of Beatles fans constantly almost getting hit by cars while trying to reenact the album cover. There’s also the wall in front the studio which is absolutely covered in fans signing it. Of course I put my own “Panda was here”

So many people reenacting The Beatles.

The studio, much smaller than I thought it would be.

So many people have signed this wall.

I also Stopped by Baker Street to have a look at the Sherlock Holmes Museum, It’s actually at his address, 221B Baker Street, and although I didn’t go up to the apartment itself I did wander around the ground floor souvenir shop which was full of things Sherlock Holmes, like replica pipes and hats and puzzles and books and more. There’s a ‘Bobby’ keeping order at the door to Sherlock Holmes’ apartment that everyone takes a photo with and statue of Sherlock Holmes just down the street from his home. I wonder how many people who go there a day thinking he actually existed?

The museum for Sherlock Holmes, complete with ‘Police sentry’.

All the Sherlock paraphernalia.

Meeting Up With Old Friends, And Making New Ones!

During my time in London I was able to meet up with old friends from back when I lived in Toronto, Tanya and James. I met them back when I was working at the bars and doing my clothing design thing, they actually modeled for me. Apparently it’s through modeling for me that they met and eventually got together. James and Tanya now live in London and it was Tanya’s birthday the weekend I was visiting, it was perfect timing for us to meet up, especially since it was 6 years since I had seen them last. It was awesome to meet up with old friends, reminisce about the old days in Toronto and show me around some great markets. Great seeing you guys, until next time Tanya and James!

Tonya the birthday girl!

Great seeing you James!

While hanging out and shopping in the markets someone recognized me from the night before’s visit to a BJJ club. I was wearing one of my Jiu-Jitsu shirts, as usual, and first I heard “Hey! You do Jiu-Jitsu?” then as I turned to look at them “I know you! You were at Meerkatsu’s!” I was a bit taken back, I was not expecting anyone to recognize me in a busy market that is in no way related to Jiu-Jitsu. I’m not really expecting anyone to recognize me when I show up to BJJ gyms, I’m only a blue belt nobody after all. The night before I had indeed visited Meerkatsu and we took a photo together that he instantly posted, which is how she recognized me. So we talked a bit, as it happens Nina trains at a gym I was already planning to visit, Urban Kings, where my host also trains. We exchanged social media accounts (I guess that’s the new ‘let’s exchange numbers’ now a days) and agreed it would cool to meet up later in the week. One day Nina showed me around town to some places I wouldn’t have found or thought of going to like the Piccadilly Circus and Soho District and also to the morbidly, interestingly weird Hunterian Museum. It was also cool to talk her about Jiu-Jitsu and bring me out to the gym when I my host got held up at work. Thanks again Nina for showing me around, was so great to meet you and we’ll definitely keep in touch!

Legendary Crobar in Shoho.

The Shaftesbury Memorial Fountain in Piccadilly Circus.

Piccadilly Circus.

Great to meet you Nina, thanks for showing me around!

I stayed the first few nights at a hostel, one I did not enjoy but there’s no sense complaining about it and dwelling on bad hosts. I had stayed there because my BJJ host Jorge had his brother in town at the same time. I met up with Jorge at his place to drop off my bags just as his brother was getting ready to leave, it was a lot of fun meeting both of them and talking about traveling. Between Jorge and his brother they have traveled a good deal of Europe and had some great tips for traveling around. Jorge lives in a really nice apartment down town (I call it down town, I really don’t know where down town is in London since each district has so much going on), so I got to walk around to a lot of places rather than always take the metro, which can be pretty expensive if you travel a lot. Jorge and I hung out and he brought me out to some places to eat, it’s always fun to go eat with someone from the area, they know where’s good to eat and show you places you otherwise would have probably missed. We all get our favourite places to eat, and I love being brought out to them when visiting people. Jorge and I had some great conversations about Jiu-Jitsu, or martial arts in general, and how it helps with everyday life. As mentioned earlier Jorge got held up at work when I visited his gym, but he still needed the outlet so went to go lift weights or hit up the kickboxing class. He would go to the morning class for kickboxing or go workout before work if he was going to miss the evening. I admire his discipline to get that training in, as a lot of people don’t have that initiative, myself included. Training is very much a part of Jorge’s life, as it is mine too, and we agreed that having the outlet to release stress, clear the mind, get that physical exertion and let go of the negativity and recharge on the positive vibes of the gym is something everyone should have. I bet there would be a lot less stress in the world if everyone trained. Thanks so much for taking care of me Jorge, I loved our conversations, but next time we’ll have to train together!

Awesome meeting you Jorge, it was a blast staying with you, thanks for everything!

Borehamwood BJJ

The first gym I visited this stay was during the evening of getting into London. I found the hostel, dropped off my bags and left for Borehamwood BJJ, which is in Borehamwood which is a small town in the northern outskirts of London. This is not a gym on my list and I never knew it existed until a week or so before coming back to London. I was sitting at the table talking with Giles in Glasgow during my stay with him and I saw something that reminded me of Meerkatsu, an ad or a post by him or someone wearing his gear, I forget which. “Hey, I wonder where he is I bet I’m passing by his place soon” I said and looked him up, as it happens Meerkatsu is situated in London. I sent a message on Facebook telling him about my journey and asking if he’d be up to meet and do an interview, completely on a whim. He got back to me with in 10 minutes, agreeing to do the interview, inviting me out to his club and asking me more about my journey being fascinated about it, I was floored! I’m a big fan of Meerkatsu, I love his artwork, it hits me on so many levels (don’t worry I won’t fanboy about it here) so I was really excited for this. I made it out to the small community center and found Meerkatsu’s, Prof. Seymour Yang’s, gym. Prof. Seymour sets up in a small space that is shared with a dance group, so each class he puts out the rolls of tatami and tapes them up. I showed up as he was setting up and there were a few students stretching. He quickly came over to welcome me to his club, I thought it was funny he was so happy to have me visit when I was so happy to able to meet the guy behind Meerkatsu.

It was a fun class, a lot of the students were younger and eager to learn and happy to have a visitor from Canada in class. After going through some fun techniques it was time to roll and I had a turn with most the students. Some had experience in other styles like Wrestling or Judo but they were still working on their Jiu-Jitsu game, so I was able to capitalize on their holes and help them out with some pointers afterwards. I also got to roll with Prof. Seymour, both in gi and no gi and we rolled for a while after class. I’m bigger and heavier but he’s a black belt, we both rolled light respecting each other, and it was a lot of fun testing my game on his and trying to find a hole in his. Seymour Yang is the nicest guy, he made me feel so welcome at his club and was genuinely interested in talking to me and we had a fun time doing the interview together. Thank you Sir, I look forward to us meeting again!

Awesome time meeting Meerkatsu Seymour Yang.

Urban Kings

The next place I went to was Urban Kings Gym which is were Jorge trains and also where I new friend Nina trains. The initial plan was to meet up with Nina before class and meet Jorge at the gym, but Jorge got held up at work so I was a good thing I made plans to meet up with Nina so I had someone to bring me to the gym and introduce me to everyone. The gym is down a side street in a court of stores and restaurants, it was much better being brought to it than me trying to find it on my own. It had the usual free weights and machines that gyms have, with a section for kickboxing and in the back room was the BJJ mats. There were a lot of guys on the mats, all of them that I met were very friendly too. The class itself dealt with a series of moves that weren’t great to for me, it all started from a De La Riva lasso, which I had a lot of problems getting into, and then sweeping or moving from there. I’m sure if i worked at it enough I could find a way for it to work for my body shape, the coach gave me some great tips to help me out but it was tough going. As the class went on I was starting to not feel too good by the end so I sat out of rolling. I sat on the side of mats and watched everyone roll and chatted with some of the students. It sucked not being to roll with the guys, but I didn’t want to risk throwing up on the mats, or worse. Despite everything it was a good time training with Urban Kings, thanks for everything guys!

I don’t have a picture of Urban Kings, so here’s a cool poster I saw at the market.

Roger Gracie HQ

One gym I had to go to was the Roger Gracie Academy HQ. I had held it off until now, opting to check out the other gyms before heading to the big one everyone talks about. I sent an e-mail hoping to meeting Roger and maybe even do a video for the blog, but I got no response. I just chalked it him being busy. I set out to the gym hoping that Roger would still be at the gym so I could at least get a photo with him. I found the gym easy enough and showed up early to sign a waiver and get ready for class, but I was out of luck for the photo, Roger was not in that evening.

The class was pretty full and I met some cool people, the few I had been talking to online weren’t around but there was Joe, who I had just met on Facebook through a mutual friends of Chris Crossan having just visited Stockton. We had a cool chat about the club and my journey so far and experiences with Catch Wrestling before class. During class I was teamed up with a big tall purple belt, I forget his name but he took to me and we trained the whole evening with him giving me pointers for my game. The instructor, Prof. Negromonte, spent the time going over positional questions, troubleshooting people’s problems with their game. There wasn’t any rolling that night but a lot of the class was live training so it was a good workout and a lot of time spent working on my game. As the class went on I recognized a familiar face in the back, a black belt sitting and watching and helping the white belts. It was A.J. Agazarm. I was shocked he was there, him being a Gracie Barra guy I would have figured he was be at a GB club unless he was there training with Roger Gracie, maybe he did I as did and just showed up hoping Roger would be there. Part of the warm up included going for a take down from a slap, a kind of self defence move, and given that A.J. had just been involved in an incident where he was slapped by his opponent there were a lot of glances his way and some snickers. My training partner and I quietly made the joke of A.J. being there was why we were going over this technique. Although he gets a bad reputation A.J. was actually really nice the short time I talked to him after class and during class he did spend a lot of time helping out the lower belts.

The big purple belt who helped me out that night.

Despite Roger Gracie himself not being around it was a great visit to the much talked about club, hopefully next time I get better luck and am able to meet him, or maybe even do an interview, one can only hope!

The instructor, Prof. Charles Negromonte.

AJ Agazarm, nice guy, but I thought he was taller.

Meerkatsu!

I was really excited to do this interview. I have been a fan of Meerkatsu since I first saw his rashguards online. I’ve bought some as well a shirt and gi designed by him since then. Like I said earlier I sent the message on a whim and was surprised to get such a happy and warm reply so quickly. Seymour Yang and I talked for quite bit to figure out when would be good to do the interview too, showing me how much he actually cares about meeting people. We had a great conversation, both in the interview and at the gym after class as we put away the mats. I’m sure Seymour and I could go on for another half hour or more talking about Jiu-Jitsu. It was an honour to talk to Seymour about how Meerkatsu came around, his Jiu-Jitsu and martial arts background and how he balances out his family, the company and running his BJJ club. I hope you find it just as interesting as I did, sorry for the reverb audio.

To watch the video head over to the Panda’s Odyssey YouTube Channel to check out it, and past interviews too. While there please show some love and like, share, comment and subscribe to the channel, thanks!    

After such a fun stop in London my time in the UK was over. I made so many friends, saw so much and realized how much more there is to see. Thanks for all the great experiences guys! Now it’s time to head off to see the rest of Europe, starting with Paris France!

Nice view on the way to the airport.

Until next time,

see you on the mats!

OSSS!!

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You don’t always get what you want

You don’t always get what you want. Sometimes that means good wifi connectivity. Lately, that’s what it’s meant.

Jen jumped on the trail, new boots, rested feet, sad over her breakup with the boots. I dropped her off, she hiked above Big Bear. Forgot her charging cord, so pictures were scarce, as were details. She DID have Chinese food in Big Bear, and kept on going. I don’t know if she walked in wearing this hat, but I hope so.

I left the lonely campground above the lake at Barton Flats, and headed back down the hill, looking for Poke, conversations with people not named Marley and Bernardo, and some Jiu Jitsu.

Since we’d been canoodling in Dana Point, Jen was out of Beach Time and needed to put some miles in on the new boots, so I slowed down to 5 mph, and rolled her out the door at mile 250. I was way too close to the Inland Empire for my taste. Frankly, it’s more the way the Inland Empire tastes, like burning tires, ozone, and heat. Smog. Heat. Tapout shirts. Back to the coast! At least there the people act like they’re better than me

Since I’m kind of trailer park deep in my soul, I stayed at the Crystal Cove campground, which used to be a trailer park perched above some of Southern California’s most desirable views. In true California fashion, well, Southern California, because in Northern California, they’d still be having sit ins and by now all the trailer park people would be subletting their double wides to tech millionaires, the city and county decided to kick the trailers and residents out, and voila! Two decades and multiple lawsuits later, it’s a different kind of trailer park.

Sometimes you find these little gems in unexpected places. I met my friend Michelle at this little bar on the beach IN the state park, next to a bunch of old bungalows. You’re on the sand, drinking, catching up, and thinking that there’s no way this place could be opened now. Kind of a dump, casual, in a world beating location. California has all kinds of little wonders in spite of itself, and it’s always fun to find reminders that this was once a pretty awesome state.

Of course, I had to earn the drinks, so I found some training. Laguna ain’t San Diego or L.A. when it comes to training. I had to drive to find world class instructors. Boo-hoo. So I found a gym that is run by one of the dirty dozen.  These are the first twelve non-Brazilians to become Black Belts. I sometimes train with Chris Hauterer when I’m in Torrance, in his garage (literally, that’s where his gym is. Not sure if it’s even a two-car, but the training is better than most dojo-palaces) so I figured a contemporary would be good. So off I went to James Boran BJJ http://www.boranjj.com/

The man himself wasn’t there, and really, neither was anybody else. Brazilian time. An older guy showed up, opened the place, and introduced himself. He was about my age, a brown belt, and there was a new, young white belt girl as well. We treated it kind of like an open mat drill session, very informal. Good rolls, very chill. Of course, the white belt was completely stoned, so that kept the energy on the playful side. Some places are homey, and very chill, and this was one. Of course, I’ve had my ass handed to me in the Garage too, and even my home gym, but in a more down home way.

Meanwhile, back on the trail, Jen was working her way east to west above San Bernardino. The landscape here is kind of crazy. From the smoggy, crowded valley floor, very steep mountains jut up four thousand feet or more. And she gets to walk up them. Then down them, then up some more. The hills here are steep, mostly granite, with some sandstone that used to be ocean floor.

She walks through pine trees, and then down into cactus and scrub oak. Sandy washes and little creeks. There is evidence of huge water, wide washes with trees and brush and trash pushed up against rocks and trees. It might have even been this spring, a little earlier. Almost all of the snow is gone, although she’s walked through patches here and there, nestled in the north facing drainages. There’s even some very nice bridges, over what we’re not sure. 

There are also little treats hidden among the hills. Our Friend Joe, OFJ, also known by his trail name, OZ, suggested this little hot springs. 

Jen says No to Joe! She’s intending to walk every mile of the PCT, that isn’t closed due to fire, or flooding, or frogs (yes, frogs). She also does not intend to walk any miles that aren’t PCT, and that includes peaks, and overlooks, and hotsprings. 

She also found this little mystery. A fully enclosed toilet, with solar power, in the middle of nowhere. 

This is also one of those parts of the trail that must be a little frustrating. The mantra is walking from Mexico to Canada, and the people, like Jen and most PCT hikers, are called NOBOs. North Bound. There are SOBOs, although the snow this year will make that an unlikely voyage. Too much snow in Oregon and Washington, so they’ll start very late, and likely run out of good weather.

Pretty much starting at Mile 270, near where I dropped her off, then across Big Bear, the San Berardino Wilderness, past Butler Peak and Lake Arrowhead, she’ll walk west, not North. She’ll walk west, through the Angeles Crest Highway, and won’t turn North again until Mile 436. By then, she’ll be north of Pasadena, standing above the Old School L.A. with its outdated and super sketchy freeway interchanges, above Burbank and Glendale and Studio City.

For now, she’s walking to mile 330, where nestled above the teeming metropolis that is Hesperia, is a lake and a campground and hopefully a trailer, some dogs, and a husband.

Next day I walked in to a Carlson Gracie Club gym, run by Allan Goes. Former MMA fighter, 6th degree Black Belt, and the only Brazilian I’ve met who starts class on time. I was a little late, because I suck, and was figuring that somebody would be showing up shortly to unlock the doors. Nope, class is full, several Black Belts on the floor, doing a regimented warmup, with a very intimidating Professor Goes standing at the front.

Oops! I get dressed, he tells me that they go on American time, and jump in. Of course, I have no idea of what is going on, flail around in warmups, and then get paired with a big blue belt to work on some stuff.

They have cards. These guys have cards telling them what they should be working on. At first, it seemed a little McDojo, or at least Traditional Martial Arts, with the outlined curriculum, and then you get your promotion. NOT AT ALL. This gym is no joke. It’s not a full on blood bath MMA gym where a bunch of young guys try to kill you with an only the strong survive mentality.  It’s professional, not gladiatorial, and they take their learning seriously, and more formally than most BJJ gyms, and it shows. Professor Goes is both very competition focused and self-defense focused. I was told he train several pro-fighters, including Lyota Machida, and I’m not surprised. In the middle of this, my phone rings, and this guy who once fought Dan Henderson to a decision, gives me a slightly dirty, mostly disappointed look. Damn!

After that, we learn some good stuff, which hopefully I’ll remember soon, I think it had to do with an armbar set up. I woke up around 2 a.m. after writing this, and remembered that we were working arm drags to back, something that has eluded me from day one. Oh, btw, I’m writing down stuff that I learned, so I don’t forget it. You’ll have to suffer along.  Then we drill, with this big guy sitting on me, while I try to escape from bad positions. Totally made me realize that I need to work on that. I started to get okay at passing the guard about a year ago, and haven’t spent that much time getting smashed, and forget that it sucks. Back to the basics.  I went two days in a row, and felt like a wrung out towel both days. Some places feel like home, real comfortable. This place felt like I was being challenged and pushed, and that was awesome too. I can be real lazy with my training, very complacent, and you need a reminder that you have to think and work to get better. I liked how they really work to chart progress, give direction, start on time. Just wish I’d known so I didn’t look like a jerk.

If you were thinking it was time for more Jen, you’re right. She was ready for a break, and her shirt was filthy, and it was time for laundry and a shower. I’d found a camp site at Silverton Lake, up above Hesperia. If you don’t know where that is, your life hasn’t been wasted. Jen was making better time than she had in the past, her feet weren’t bugging her, and therefore I had to hurry up to meet her. She actually beat me to the camp, had already showered, pitched her tent and taken a nap. In my defense, she’d demanded that I find her donuts, so I was delayed.  

She’d ditched her ultra-light, not freestanding, super expensive tent at the last meet up, and I sold it to some guy on Facebook. Obviously, I didn’t ask enough for it, since he was willing to drive an hour up to meet me and get it. Still, $500 for a used tent seemed like a good deal to me. She’d taken my tent, all 5 pounds of solid, not going to fall down in the wind or snow tent, and loved it, except the 5 pound part. So, back to REI for a new tent. She got a freestanding, single person little thing that neither I nor the dogs will ever be allowed into. At this point I was trying to steer her to a bivy sack. Lighter, cheaper, not much smaller, but got nowhere.

After about five donuts, Jen started to regret that decision, and I took the remaining half dozen up the trail while she napped, before she could change her mind. I was looking for hikers so I could do a little trail angel action. About an hour in, I gave up. I’m not into this long distance hiking thing. I left the box, with PCT spelled out on top of it in sticks, and turned around. I wanted to make sure none of the fat little kids who had woken me up too early the day before got any donuts, so I marked them and put them up the hill where they’d be unlikely to find them. I hit the paved bike path, and of course there’s five hikers walking along. I told them there were donuts about a mile up the trail, and you could see them considering it.

Next morning, after a steak dinner, no more donuts and some time off, Jen was going to hit the trail again. I hiked up the trail again, planning on checking on my donuts, and sure enough some kid from Carolina is walking down the trail with the empty box. Success! I was pretty happy since this was the first trail magic I’d done that had worked out.

Jen was donut fueled and ready to hike, plus she’d heard that there was a McDonalds just off trail, and she knows how I feel about that, so she was ready to ditch me, get some McFood, and not have me looking at her all disappointed and sanctimonious about it.

If you’re keeping score, the campground was at mile 330, give or take, and Jen has been on the trail, mostly, since April 18, so a little over a month. She’s averaged about 11 miles per day, but that included a lot of rest days due to the blisters, and she’s regularly doing 20 mile days when she’s on the trail. At this pace, she’d be done in about 5 months, late September, which is hopefully early enough to avoid getting snowed on in Washington.

I turned back around, and headed back to the coast, this time just north of Malibu.

St. Barths Caribbean Camp. Pirate’s life for me!

Just over two months ago I had started my journey in the El Salvador Globetrotters camp and now I was finally at my second camp in the Caribbean. I had travelled through Central America, hitting as many gyms as I could for two months, meeting people through Jiu Jitsu and others just on the road, people who would make an impact on the rest of my life. I can’t believe how lucky I am to be able to have this life and how glad I am to have made the decision to go for it.

It was the first open mat of the Caribbean Camp, I had already done a few rolls with my fellow Globetrotters. I sat at the edge of the mats looking at all the people rolling together, laughing and enjoying. Gradually I felt the goosebumps rising from within and I had to try my hardest to hold back tears of joy. I thought to myself of all the places I’ve been to, this is where I belong. People coming from all over the world with one common interest, putting aside nationality, believes, politics and everything else, on the mats that doesn’t matter. We are all the same.

The following week was one of the most intense and best weeks of my life. We would wake up in the morning for surfing, head for Jiu Jitsu class and end the day with a few beers together. To survive that I had to strategically take naps during group beach trips after lunch. Such a hard life. Then Friday rolled around, there was a boat trip scheduled for the whole day. In my childhood I grew up around boats and have always enjoyed myself a boat ride, but this day took it to a whole new level. We sailed out to this remote beach where we set down anchor. We spend the day swimming in the sea, tanning on top of the boats, cheering to a good week and trying our best to grab the best profile picture as possible.


I wish I could mention every single person I met in the camp in this post but there where just to many people I got to know over the course of the week. I do however have to mention my fellow instructors. Every single class that I attended was interesting. In just that one week I was able to add so many techniques to my game. After all this travelling my game doesn’t even look the same, I’m starting to look like a BJJ Frankenstein put together with techniques from all over the world. These camps are not only a place to make friends for life but also improve and widen your Jiu Jitsu.

Before this week started I thought that maybe I wouldn’t make as many friends as I did in El Salvador, maybe it wouldn’t live up to that camp. However at the end of it I had just as many invitations around the world and I realised that each camp would be different and would bring me different experiences for life.

 

 

Barcelona, Spain May 2017

My trip to Barcelona was a whirlwind of awesomeness full of beautiful sites, amazing food, and great friends, both old and new.  I arrived with just one day to explore the city before competing in the IBJJF International Master – Europe.

I stayed in Verdum with a friend who also trains.  She is a black belt under Cyborg, and she is a plant-based athlete.  Barcelona has fruit and vegetable stands on almost every corner with a great selection of fresh options. 

I loved how easy it was to find quick, healthy snacks on the go, but I had no idea what was in store later that day.

We took the metro to Placa de Catalunya.  As soon as we stepped back outside I was blown away by the architecture.  The buildings are so beautiful.  There were so many people walking around on the streets that I kind of felt like I was in Manhattan, but much much prettier and with a much bigger sense of historic value.  The plaza itself has beautiful fountains, green space for lounging, and a hoard of pigeons you can feed if you want.  I wanted to walk around and take in all the beauty, so that’s what we did.

The gothic quarter is full of winding stone streets and narrow alleys that seem to hold their own secrets.  We wandered around taking random turns to see what we could find.  One courtyard we stumbled upon had a life-size chess board, and another had the most beautiful mosaic tile artwork.  By then we were starting to get hungry again, and we just happened to walk right by a vegan restaurant that had great menu options and fresh juices.

We wandered around a little more and hit the mother of all street market jackpots!  La Boqueria Mercat is a maze of never-ending booths selling all kinds of meats, cheeses, fruits, juices, desserts, and spices.  Every booth is different, but almost all of them had quick options for eating on the run.  It was amazing!  Since I was competing the next day, I couldn’t stuff my face with everything I wanted to, but I vowed to come back and do just that.

The next day was tournament day!  Several of my friends from home were also competing.  It was such a fun tournament!  I met some cool chicks from other countries, and everyone was in great spirits.  In my experience, the Masters tournaments have a different vibe.  Maybe because everyone is older, I’m not sure, but as a whole those events feel more relaxed, more fun, and the camaraderie among the athletes is always excellent.

 

I was fortunate enough to win my division by submission, but I opted to forgo the open class to see more of the city and eat.  After exercising some serious self-control the day before in the amazing street market, I wanted to go all out. 

We left the venue and headed to the coast.  But first, there was a peanut butter sandwich (okay two) with my name on it.

The tournament was in L’Hospitalet de Llobregat, which is close to the beach, but my friends took me for a drive through the mountains to Platja d’Aro in S’Agaro.  The drive itself was beautiful; there are castles everywhere in Barcelona! I was most excited to see the Mediterranean Sea for the first time.

The beach in S’Agaro is very small, but there is a long walkway with breathtakingly beautiful sights.  There are rock formations you can walk on and watch the waves crash into, little caves worn into the rocks by the sea, hidden stone steps to go down and explore, a series of tiny beaches that feel private, and the walkway ends at a much larger sand beach.  It was the most beautiful part of the entire trip.

At this point I was like ‘where are the carbs?’  There is a string of restaurants right along the beach, so we stopped in to La Clova for some pizza.  They have a fresh herb garden right in the entryway! My friends ordered their pizza without cheese, and I opted for the pear and gorgonzola.  Not only was it delicious, but I was able to eat the entire thing all by myself.  #winning

Even though my friend’s are vegans, they kept telling me that Spain is known for its cured hams, similar to prosciutto, but way better, or so they swear.  The obvious next step would be to try some. 

We ordered the ham based on the amount we wanted, but it came with all kinds of other things to nibble on.  We also ordered a cheese platter to try some different local cheeses.  The red one tasted like pizza.  The best part was the fruit paste that appeared to be guava but was a different fruit I couldn’t pronounce.  The sweet of the fruit mixed with the salt of the ham was on point.  By this time I had an impressively large food baby, so we headed back home for the night.

The next day I headed home, but not before a delicious breakfast of – you guessed it – more carbs!  Barcelona has its own version of mexican churros, which are a type of fried dough.  They leave out the cinnamon sugar coating in exchange for a cup of hot chocolate for dipping.  Not hot chocolate like warm milk with chocolate mixed in, oh no.  Hot chocolate as in a mug of melted chocolate.  It was heavenly.

Overall, the trip was so much fun.  Barcelona is beautiful, the people are so nice, the food is amazing, the city is easy to get around, and there are so many things to do and see.  There wasn’t enough time in the schedule (or room in my belly) to try the famous paella, but there is always next year. 

Northern Kentucky

     For this installment I’m going to discuss the area of Kentucky where I grew up. I recently went back to hit some of the tourist attractions in the area, and do some training while visiting family. As for the training, I went to Georgetown MMA in Georgetown, KY. Whenever I’m in town I try to at least stop by, as this is one of my favorite gyms to train at.

Coach Adam Gomez and I

     Georgetown MMA is an average size gym that is an affiliate of the American Killer Bees Association. Adam Gomez is the head coach/trainer and is a brown belt under Israel Gomez. Adam, originally from California, has been training BJJ for 15 years and has competed, and won, numerous competitions. Aside from all of his BJJ accomplishment, he is (put plainly) a really good guy. He is always there for his students, willing to help them in any way possible, and providing the family atmosphere, which is what makes this gym so great. The gym offers an excellent kids program, gi and nogi jiu jitsu, MMA, yoga, and general fitness classes. They also offer kids camps in the summer as well as anti-bullying classes for school aged children. I feel compelled to mention his son, Isiah, is probably one the most talented young jiu jitsu practitioners I have met.

Ready to start training

     Now that I’ve covered the gym, lets get into some of the places I visited while in the area. First was Big Bone Lick State Park; located in Big Bone in Boone County, KY. The name of the park comes from the mammoth bones found there. Mammoths, along with giant sloths, bison, and horses were drawn to the area by a salt lick deposited by sulphur springs. Many animals that came to the area for food, found themselves stuck in the soft and marshy area around the springs. This area has been dubbed the birthplace of American Paleonthology, which dates from an 1807 expedition by William H. Clark (of Lewis and Clark fame). Today, there is a fairly large heard of Bison that live and are cared for on the grounds; there are many hiking trails and viewing areas to see the Bison.

Bison are huge

    Next, we went to the Noah’s Ark Encounter in Williamstown, KY. The Ark Encounter is a religious theme park, which centers on a full-scale model of Noah’s Ark from the Genesis chapter of the Bible. It sits at 510 feet long, 85 feet wide, and 51 feet high. The theme park is focused on a creationist belief system and is owned by the same company that runs the Creation Museum just 45 miles to the north. I have to say, I am not a religious person, but the ark is truly an engineering marvel to me. Walking through the ark I was mesmerized by the eight posts that run from bottom to top, all the same width and harvested from already downed trees found in the wilderness (so they say). A group of Amish builders worked day and night to construct the gigantic boat. In my mind, it’s truly a marvel, religious connotation aside.

     Kentucky is famous for a few things: horses, bluegrass, and bourbon. The bourbon trail, which runs through the state, offers the public with tours of some of the best bourbon facilities there is, and is a program sponsored by the Kentucky Distiller’s Association. Sites along the tour include the Maker’s Mark distillery, Evan Williams, Four Rose’s, Jim Beam, Wild Turkey, and Woodford Reserve. Not only do you get to tour the facilities, but also most offer a free tasting before you leave, you must be over 21 obviously.

     If bourbon, or religious theme parks aren’t your thing, perhaps a visit to the Kentucky Horse Park will suit you. My kids really enjoyed this place. The park is a working horse farm and educational theme park located just north of Lexington. The kids really enjoyed the Kids barn and the “Horses of the World” show that is held twice daily, which showcase both common and rare horses from around the world. The park also has the International Museum of the Horse, which my wife seemed to be quite fond of.

     If you find yourself travelling through the area, check out some of the spots. I am fairly certain, the people at Georgetown MMA would be happy to have you on the matts.

Adventure Week in Thailand

Without hesitation, I can say that within my 4 months of continuous travel, so far this past week has been the most mind-blowing. I trained at two gyms, explored temples, attended a televised fight and went on a day-long motorcycle adventure – all while maintaining a steady job. I still have 8 months left before I go home but this week is going to be hard to beat.

 

Temples and Muay Thai in Bangkok

 

Training with Kru Suphan at Be Muay

The start of my “Adventure Week in Thailand” began last Thursday in a small, humid room a 20 minute walk away from the last stop on Bangkok’s skytrain. I was there to do what every martial artist is basically required to do while in Thailand – train in a local gym with a Thai Kru. I had about a year of experience in Muay Thai before BJJ took over my life, so I was a little nervous to see what I could actually remember.

The gym is called Be Muay and ran by the endlessly high-energy Kru Suphan. He passionately emphasizes the importance of understanding Thai culture, language and history if you really want to embrace this fighting style. The class covered basic techniques and was customized to each person’s skill level. The tips I got about shifting my weight while throwing a straight cross were helpful, but the most valuable thing I learned was how to say “sorry” in Thai –“Khor Thot Krab.” I’ve already had to use that more than a few times on the mat after accidentally kneeing someone in the groin.

 

If you’re not a hardcore Muay Thai fighter but you still want to experience the culture behind this martial art, Kru Suphan is the man to show you.

 

Exploring the Grand Palace

Friday was spent resting and working, but first thing on Saturday morning (that means noon for me) I set out to meet up a friend from back home to explore Bangkok’s Grand Palace. It was a huge complex filled with temples and statues ornately decorated covered in gold leaf and jewels. Black and white sashes were draped around all the walls as the country is in an official year of mourning for their late king. It was a little strange to see the mix of foreigners taking selfies right next to the crowds of Thai people dressed in all black formal suits there to pay respects.

 

Brutal Muay Thai Fights

On Sunday, a group of my traveling buddies got together and made our way to the local television studio to watch some nationally televised Muay Thai fights. After throwing some elbows and kicks of my own on Thursday, this was the next thing on my Thailand bucket list.

When we got there, one of my friends was forced to buy a black shirt outside the gate the because he was dressed too brightly. Since it was televised, everyone had to wear mourning colors for the king. Once we were let inside, we were immediately ushered to the stands directly across from the mounted cameras. Just out of view of the cameras was a big sign behind us that read “Seating for Foreigners.” I was told that they wanted to show how many non-Thai love their fights and how we all dress appropriately to honor the king.

After waiting about 3 hours on the steel bleachers, it was finally time for the fights to begin. The wait was worth it! All the fights went five rounds, with the fighters becoming more aggressive after every bell. The bleachers on both sides of the foreigner seats were filled with shouts and flailing hand gestures of betting locals. The crowd’s excitement level broiled higher and higher as the fights progressed; each knee, kick and elbow was followed by a huge “OW!!” from the entire crowd.

 

 

We saw traditional ring dances, a ton of passion from the fighters and crowd, and two vicious K.O.s. It was everything I had hoped for and I loved that I got to share it with friends that knew nothing about the sport before!

 

Side Trip to Chiang Mai

Right after the Muay Thai fights, I took the train back to the hotel to grab my backpack and then caught a late-night flight to Chiang Mai, a city in Northern Thailand.

 

Motorcycle trip around the Somoeng Loop

My friend Aaron had been motorcycling across Southeast Asia and was posted up for the month in Chiang Mai. He told me about an amazing daytrip circuit just outside the city that he would take me on called the Somoeng Loop. I woke up extra early the next morning and rented a dirt bike.

We met up around 10am in the middle of Chiang Mai’s oldtown and headed toward the hills. We weaved through back alley streets trying to avoid police checkpoints since my California motorcycle license didn’t mean anything out there. We thought we were in the clear, but just before we reached the city limits we were waived off to the side of the road along with every other motorbike and scooter. Aaron got off scoff free because he was smart enough to get his international license. The officer demanded I pay 500baht, but he thankfully accepted the 300baht I deliberately stashed in my front pocket for this exact reason.

From then on it was nothing but beautiful mountains, winding roads and scenic pitstops. We spent the next six hours in complete bliss as we forget work deadlines, budget stress and just focused on the road ahead.

 

We capped the ride off with an insane resort infinity pool tucked inside a small roadside village. From the pool, we had an amazing view of an all-white temple sitting on top of the distant mountains. It was great way to end the ride.

 

Training at Chiang Mai Fight Fit

I had just enough time for a 30 minute nap after my ride before I had to run off to the Chiang Mai Fight Fit gym. I had met the resident black belt, Erno in a gym in Bangkok the week before and he invited me to come visit. The gym had just become affiliate with BJJ Globetrotters and I was the first traveler to take advantage.

Erno is extremely technical when teaching and demonstrating his techniques, which makes it even more amazing when he pulls them off at lightning speed during sparring. We trained takedowns and effective guard pulling on the first day. The second night as no gi and we went over reverse De La Riva, which I just heard of for the first time.

Even though I was working on unfamiliar techniques, I felt like I had my best two days of rolling this year while in Chiang Mai. Everything just clicking and my flow was as smooth as it had ever been. I think the perfect week that led up to training put me in a relaxed mindset and allowed me to spar without any worries.

 

Looking back on everything that happened last week, I know that I’m ridiculously lucky to have this life and I’m proud of the decisions and hard-work I put in to get myself here. I’ve spent the last four months exploring Southeast Asia and unfortunately this week is my last. On Friday, I start the next four-month chapter of my year-long adventure in Europe. I don’t want to leave all the amazing things I’ve experienced here, but I’m ready to explore all whole new continent!

Kicking Off My Journey with a World Champ

Wednesday, May 17th, 2017

I’m laying in bed in my small, Westchester, NY apartment. My body aches. My muscles hurt down to my bones. My fingers struggle typing this. “Why?”, you ask? Well, today kicked off the first of many stops on my BJJ Globetrotters journey. I decided to kick off with a long-awaited goal of mine: train with a World Champion. Lucky for me, JT Torres recently opened doors at his new East Coast BJJ haven, Essential BJJ. This gym has been on my list since he announced his return to New York almost a year ago and, seeing the posts of a close friend who currently trains at the school on social media, I knew I had to get in and train.

This past Tuesday, I emailed the contact listed on the Essential BJJ website asking to take their competition class (www.essentialbjj.com). Essential has classes every day except Sundays. I could tell from the photos my friend Ronny had posted that these guys were the real deal. I was, admittedly, slightly nervous. That said, I was INSANELY excited when I received a phone call from Jolanda, Torres’s girlfriend, who runs the sales at Essential. She said, and I’m not making this up:

“We typically don’t let people take the competition class as their first class; we don’t wanna scare you off!”

On the Essential website, the Competition Classes are listed as “Invitation Only”. After some reassurance from myself, and having a buddy vouch for my past training and competition experience, I was all signed up for the class!

I woke up this morning, packed my gi (with my fresh patch job done by yours truly!), grabbed my belt and a snack for the drive down, and hopped in the truck for my 30 minute drive to Hartsdale. 

My first impression of Essential had to do with the location. Literally a stones throw from the Hatrsdale MetroNorth station, the gym is sandwiched in the main area of the town; delis, restaurants, and the like surround the gym on all ends. There’s 90-minute metered parking right in front of the gym, but free three-hour street parking just over the overpass above the train station. 

 

The Path to Glory!

 

The gym itself is marked by a sign on the side of a building, and is located on the second floor. I walked up the stairs and was greeted with the cleanest gym I’ve ever stepped foot in. Jolanda greeted me, I filled out the waiver, and walked into the locker room where I was met by JT and the guys. JT proved to be the nicest guy, and was incredibly welcoming to his academy.

 

The Training Grounds

 

Class started with a warm up that consisted of jogging, butt kicks, high knees, etc., followed by ten 2-minute rounds of drilling with a partner. We could drill whatever we wanted as long as you were moving the whole time. I joined up with a fellow blue belt who informed me that it was his second class after taking four years away from training. He drilled mostly closed guard attacks, and I focussed on my butterfly-SLX-X-Guard entries.

 

The bulk of the class consisted of six 10-minute rounds of live rolling, and this is where I truly learned what it meant to be the nail. Coming from a gym where I was one of the senior members, I’m used to being a hammer more than a nail. Many of my training partners were white belts, although rolling with blue belts and purples were not out of the ordinary. That said, I’m still used to being closer to the top of the food chain. Here at Essential, I was given a lovely dose of being a nail. The Competition Class consisted of a few former Marcelo Garcia purple belts, an MG brown belt, and JT himself. Myself, my partner, and one white belt were also along for the ride. 

 

If you look closely, you can see the strain in my face as I tried to stay standing.

 

For lack of a better term, I got my stuff handed to me. My first round with my drilling partner went well, but that was the peak. I immediately got a roll in with JT for my second roll. Here’s where I truly got a taste of JT Torres, and here’s the best way to put it: JT Torres is one of the nicest guys in the world… until you slap hands and bump fists. I’ve never been able to see someone’s whole demeanor shift in a moment like I did. I could tell early on that this would be a ride; I was rolling with a warrior. In the same way a sharks eyes roll back before attacking, JT’s face shifts to laser-focus. And that whole “Spider-Man” grip strength thing? Put it this way: his grips are forged in steel. I fancy myself having above average grips, but mine were no more than a baby’s grasp compared to his. I had a blast. plain and simple.

 

The next 50 minutes were entirely too similar. My game was completely shut down. Interestingly enough, and we joked about this after class, most of the students were on the larger end. I took the crushing pressure of my 250 pound training partners happily. Although these giants were indeed giant, they moved like vipers. The white belt in class blew out some cauliflower towards the end, and we all stopped and jeered, shouting congrats and joking about how the next big movie is “Tales of a Killer White Belt”. My last two rounds consisted of a repeat round with JT (which went entirely like the first) and Nick, one of the purple belts. The final bell rang, and I was content. Completely exhausted, but content and high on endorphins. Little did I know what was next up…

 

Class wasn’t over. Nope. Turns out, competition class ended with one 6-minute round drilling my kryptonite: double leg takedowns. Now, my goal for this year was to work my doubles. I’ve always sucked at wrestling, and I’m just down starting to address it. I can drill a double just fine, but hitting them live is like sorcery to me. Those six minutes were harder than any round I’d had that day. Six minutes of straight movement and entries. Lucky enough, my partner, Nick, dragged me along. He encouraged me and told me to persevere. I struggled, but made it through. 

 

Class ended with a cooldown of walking around the mats and stretching. Through the heavy breathing and fighting back the panic, I heard JT’s voice. He was giving a motivational speech. He spoke about the importance of competition training for both physical strength and, more importantly, mental strength.

 

“Mental strength is the difference between a silver and a gold” 

-JT Torres

 

We came together and circled up at the end of class and put our hands in. JT thanked us for training, and continued his motivation. Finally, with a “1-2-3-HARD WORK”, class ended. I asked JT for a mop to clean the mats, but no matter how hard I tried, he wouldn’t let me.

 

“Enjoy your time here, you’re a guest!” he said.

 

Overall, my experiences at Essential were incredible. Enough to keep me coming back. Enough, perhaps, to get me to sign up following my return from my road trip as my homebase. BIG thanks to JT for being so hospitable and letting me train with you guys, and a huge thanks to his team for beating me up. Looking forward to coming back!

 

Me and SpiderMan; Looking forward to coming back!

 

To finish off, this post wouldn’t be complete without a photo of the Essential BJJ Mascot: JT’s dog Oliver. He chills in his out little room right behind the front desk. Oss!

 

Oliver: the OG rep of Dog-Jitsu

 

Navigating big camp waves behind the scenes

I was navigating some serious waves at the Caribbean Island Camp here in Saint Barth last week. To say it was an intense camp for me would be quite an understatement. It was my 24th BJJ Globetrotters camp and I probably don’t remember many others that’s been as hectic as this one. Ok, I almost had a heart attack at the Winter Camp in Austria once from partying, snowboarding and not sleeping three days in a row. But I was young and wild back then in 2015. Ok, also in 2016 at the Party Camp in Copenhagen. I almost died on the mats there, too. But this is 2017, let’s not hang on to the past.

As always, I put a lot (!) of time into preparing for every single little detail of a camp. My standard check list for planning and executing a camp has more than 300 check points. I evaluate all camps and add more things to the check list, but still, unforeseen things always happen and my primary task behind the scenes during the camp is to manage just this.

No waves the two first days freaked me out a bit, but things turned around and we had the most amazing mornings in the water with perfect waves

This camp last week felt a bit like a tsunami of unexpected things. It never rains here in May, but it did. Two days of straight up Jurassic Park opening day rain storm. It was so heavy that we couldn’t hear anything in the gym from the rain hitting the roof. One of our rental cars had a minor accident (that took a lot of time and energy for paperwork, insurance etc.). I had booked a different restaurant every night and they all screwed up the bookings. Boat trip looked like it would be cancelled because of the weather.  Two days without waves for the surf lessons and the list goes on.

A hike and swim in super heavy rain actually turned out to be a really cool experience

In many ways, organizing a camp reminds me a lot about Jiu Jitsu. It is very much about staying calm and controlling a chaotic situation while under a lot of pressure. Maybe that’s why I enjoy torturing myself with hosting 1000s of people every year at camps around the world. In a strange way, it’s an enjoyable thing for me. Like the pain and nervousness of competing. Once you’re in it, you kind of just ride the storm. When it’s over, you’ve come out stronger on the other side.

The day before this boat trip it was raining so hard we couldn’t go outside. Next morning, perfect sunshine and crystal clear water.

I’ve recently come to realize that my primary job function with BJJ Globetrotters really is damage control. Yes, I teach classes, I research, plan and execute camps, I design the products, run the webshop and answer one million emails. But the vast majority of my work time, I spend on fixing things that didn’t go as planned. Outside of the camps, there is always something with the factories, warehouse or customers. Always something I couldn’t control. A while back, this annoyed me tremendously. I always wish I could just participate in the camps, join the classes and relax instead of running around and fixing things. But I’ve come to embrace it. Like Jiu Jitsu, surfing and Storm Chasers (fucking Storm Chasers, I wanna be them) it is really in the process of trying to stay calm in chaos that I enjoy. Especially because it always works out and the participants of the camp never really notice how stressed I’ve been behind the scenes :-)

Beautiful evening dinner at the end of the camp. A bit of trouble with the food order but we fixed it and there was plenty of drinks of course :)

The camp last week was a tremendous success and I enjoyed it so much. A lot of things has been added to the check list for next camp here in November. Now I’m taking a few days in the hammock to rest and then going all in on getting ready for the next one in Maine, USA in 12 days. Whatever that camp throws at me, I’m ready for it.

this is not my beautiful trail

This blog has been very difficult to write. Not because of emotional content, but because I keep closing the window that it’s in, and it doesn’t auto-save. Maybe the universe doesn’t think that it’s a good one, and keeps wanting me to start over. However, I owe Paulo Guillobel at the awesome https://www.guillobelbjj.com/ a shout out for his hospitality, and it’s overdue! 

This one is going to be pretty light on Pacific Crest Trail, because we’ve been hanging out for a rest weekend in Dana Point. We got new boots for Jen, finally! Now, she just needs to soak her feet, let her blisters heal up a little, and let me eat some sushi and do some Jiu Jitsu. Which I did. At https://www.guillobelbjj.com/

We pulled into this little beach/harbor town on Friday, and I frantically looked for two things. Sushi, and Jiu Jitsu. Stuffed my face with fresh fish from this little hole in the wall, skipped the sake, and grabbed my gi for open mat. No instruction, just some of the students hanging out, rolling for fun, and I got that easy, flow roll I didn’t get on Monday. Another older purple belt and I spent about ten minutes just having fun, grabbing submission attempts, sweeps, passes.

I know it seems a little weird, but this kind of slower, half-assed roll is where I learn the most. Not fighting for every inch let’s you really feel what’s happening, and see the consequences of your choices, and counters, and all that human chess stuff that this sport is all about. I had some other, more intense rolls, with lower belts of course, and had some really good battles with younger, more athletic people who were slightly more intent on ripping my arms off. All in all, a nice Friday evening. I grabbed a poke bowl and a sake, and headed home, where Jen was soaking her feet, eating a pie, and watching Rue Paul. 

I headed back the next day for class, taught by the Professor himself. In BJJ, Black Belts are referred to as Professor, not Sensei, or Master, of SiFu. Instructors that are not black belts are called Coach. I don’t know why, but at least I didn’t have to learn to count in Portuguese. Until today. 

Paulo Guillobel is a badass. And Brazilian, and his guys can count to twenty in Portuguese, which is what they speak in Brazil. It’s close enough to Spanish so that I knew it was happening, but not close enough for me to join in. The guy obviously knows his stuff, which is great, and you can see by the huge number of stripes on his Black Belt. They’re like rings on a tree, but they’re for every two years, not one.

 

So,this guy has been a black belt for longer than I’ve been training, by a factor of about two. Of course, some guys are great at doing, but they can’t teach or explain what’s going on. Not so here, he’s got a real sense of how to coach and explain things. We worked on some Judo style throws, and he had some really good insights. My Judo still sucks, but maybe it sucks a little less, and I’ve got some stuff which I can use to work on when I train the take down part of my game, which is whenever I am forced to. 

We then went into a standing guard break series, where you stand up in someones’ guard, and instead of hurting your back or getting swept, you actually break the guard and pass. The key takeaways, and I’m trying to remember as best I can, is to create a different angle, and to really focus on the leg the is being attacked. It’s complicated, but I’m leaving this here as a reminder for myself. I hate learning awesome things only to forget them the next day. Ugh, that’s part of training in a sport that is endlessly creative and dynamic. Rote memorization of a few moves is not going to get you anywhere It’s also why a guy can keep training for decades, and keep getting better, like that guy above in the white gi.

I even had a chance to roll with Professor, which was amazing, in the way that you can appreciate how little you know and how much better your opponent is, and really how effective it is in kicking your ass. Plus, his style is very much what I want mine to be. Slow, methodical, subtle. He makes constant little changes to his angles which have big effects on the pathetic little things I’m trying to do. Every defensive move I made seemed to only make things worse. I bump his mount, he gets further under my arms. I try to turn, he moves under my shoulder, trapping me further. I try and shrimp, he gets a better angle on my arm, which until recently I thought was pretty well hidden, but now seems very, very vulnerable. And which is now being slowly moved into an armbar, to which I’ll tap to shortly, 

One of the great things about Jiu Jitsu is that you get to interact and train with the luminaries of the sport in a way you don’t get to in other endeavors. Unless you pay a lot in some charity auction, you don’t get to share the court with Michael Jordan, or play catch with Joe Montana. Sorry, I know those guys have been retired a while, but I don’t watch much ball and stick stuff, and I didn’t want to research who was famous in those sports. 

But you get to get on the mat, and try your pathetic, hopeless best against world champions pretty frequently. For $20 bucks, which covers instruction and your mat fee. How cool is that? 

With all this Jiu Jitsu goodness, and fresh fish and tacos and ocean views, it was a little hard to wrap it up and head back into the mountains, but they were kicking us out. Plus, I left my trailer in Barton Flats, and eventually the raccoons, aka the hobos of the woods, would break in and burn it down, so we had to hustle back up. Plus, Jen, while reluctant to give up her pie and couch, has a trail to walk, and she really wants to do it. 

We got back up, where it was threatening to snow again, packed up the still raccoon free trailer, and drove to mile 250, where our little hero began her long march to Canada anew. I duct taped her feet, just in case, shoved her out the door, and turned around, this time headed for Laguna Beach. 

She seems to be doing just fine, btw. She just charged a Chinese Food lunch to the card in Big Bear. That means mile 265 or so. I’ll meet her again at Mile 325, where hopefully she’ll tell me all about how awesome her new boots are, and maybe how I was right about those damn leather monsters all along. 

BJJ Brown Belt Promotion

Brown Belt Promotion. May 6th 2017, My brother promoted my other brother and me to BJJ Brown Belt. After years of training I am a Brown Belt  

I started my BJJ journey in 2002. Just after getting beat in a tough man contest by a person that knew Jiu Jitsu. One of my marines who I did Marine corps Marital arts with told me about this place down the road from my base. I attend a class and fell in love. I started going 2-3 days a week. And in those days your a white belt you were the practice dummy and didn’t really learn anything except how to tap. 

For the next 10 years I bounce around all over training anywhere and with anyone. Every city, state or country I was in I would try to find Jiu Jitsu. We trained in the dirt, in the sand or on the concreat. As long as we were rolling I was happy. In 2010 I deployed to Haiti for the earth quake relief. Even there I found a Gracie Brown belt to roll with in the dirt. Between protection new agents we rolled. 

I found me self in austin Texas. Where I bounced around to gym after gym. Finally finding my now Brown Belt brother Brandon. Who introduced me to my brother, business partner and Professor Mikal. We all met at a bar because we we all training a couple of amateur MMA fighters to get into the cage for the first time. We spoke and we all were on the same page and wanted a place where we felt at home. A place with no political agenda. And no BS. At that moment is where we started our first gym Aces. We met at my house  put a couple 6’x6′ purple mats on the ground in my garage and rolled. 

 

A few few months later we open our first club. The country Club of BJJ. A place we’re you walked in and left your ego at the door and you were family. White belt to black belt you are one. And we are all there to help each one of us grow. 

 

Now almost 4 years into our journey. We are the same. I am a brown belt, Brandon is a brown belt promoted with me. And mikal was promoted to black belt 2 years after we opened.  

I still travel all over for work and you will see more blogs about my travels. 

Clevey Williams Visit -5/5/17 – Newman WA

We were lucky enough to be graced with a visit to Newman from a good friend of mine Cleve Williams. I met Cleve around Feb 2009 on one of my training trips to the Submission Factory in Perth Western Australia. At the time Cleve was a Purple belt and had just returned to training after having some time off.

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Saying Goodbye

Hello again all! I hope everyone who attended the Caribbean Globetrotters Camp had a blast; I was incredibly jealous! I’m less than a week away from embarking on my USA Jiu Jitsu Journey, and I can’t imagine how I can get any more excited!

 

On a more somber note…

 

I graduated college this past Saturday with my Bachelors degree in Geology. Woo! Although this day brought feelings of joy and pride I’d not felt before, it also brought something incredibly sad. This past Friday, I had to say goodbye to my home away from home: Oneonta Jiu Jitsu Academy. This tiny, tucked away, “Never Back Down”-esque gym was the gym I began my jiu jitsu journey at, and I’ll forever be thankful for the guys and gals of OJJA for the past four years. I figured the best way to pay tribute to my crew of killers would be to share the story of myself and OJJA. So here goes…

 

I first walked into Oneonta Jiu Jitsu Academy when it wasn’t OJJA. Originally “Infinity Jiu Jitsu”, this gym arose from a small crew of killers out of a Tae Kwon Do studio in Oneonta, New York. This crew was led by Matt Martindale, who was a blue belt at the time. Martindale, along with his following of dedicated students (shout outs to Wyatt, Ryan, Anthony, Harley, Ben, Genista, Justin, and Callagy), eventually outgrew their shared TKD mat space, and decided to open up their own school. All it took was a dilapidated basement space under a real estate office, some elbow grease, and dedicated students to turn this…

 

Before

 

into THIS:

After. Future NoGi Pans Champ Ben Dixon pictured.

 

In late September of 2013, Infinity Jiu Jitsu opened its doors with a seminar/promotion by Tai Kai/Team Balance Black Belt, Dennis Sugrue. Matt Martindale received his purple belt, and the first crew of OJJA blue belts were christened! In the time I’d train at this school, I’d watch Matt get his brown belt, Wyatt get his purple, and these blues all get their purples as well.

 

As luck would have it, I’d step into the Infinity Jiu Jitsu doors roughly a week after their opening. I remember hiking a mile up the road to the gym, a walk I’d repeat dozens upon dozens of times for the next two semesters, only to find the door tucked away down a slightly sketchy driveway. I cautiously, but excitedly, walked in the door and was greeted by Matt, the instructor. We briefly talked about my experience with jiu jitsu, and I mentioned my older brothers. I but on my shorts and athletic shirt, and stepped onto the mats for the first time of many. Years later, Matt admitted his first thoughts of me:

 

When Mike first started, I assumed he’d be this annoying college kid who’d be gone after a few weeks.”

Matt Martindale

 

Little did he realized that I dove in, rather headfirst. My first class involved learning a basic butterfly guard pass… before I even knew what butterfly guard was. I felt so bad for my drilling partner. Justin, if you’re reading this, sorry for headbutting you when I dove for the underhook. 

 

And that was only the beginning. It became apparent to everyone in my life that jiu jitsu was taking over my life. I’d be in the gym four days a week, and when I wasn’t? I’d be looking at BJJ videos on YouTube. 

 

Favorite Memory

This is a tough one. I can think of so many unforgettable memories from OJJA: Popping my IBJJF cherry at NoGi Pans 2015 (I lost first match, but spent the whole day watching my teammates succeed), receiving my blue belt after an exceptionally hard belt testing along with some of my best friends, Saturday NoGi hour-long rolls, getting brutally hip tossed into the floor by white belt Tyrell, etc. But if I had to choose ONE moment… I’d go with one of the most recent: our first Purple Belt testing. On April 22nd, OJJA hosted a massive belt testing in which our first crop of blue belts got promoted to Purple Belt. The energy in the room as my brothers, the guys who’d been beating me up for months-years, struggled through the final phase of the test, was palpable. I’d just received my third stripe on my blue belt, but that didn’t matter. As the beat of our hands against the mat reverberated through the room, I felt proud. Proud to be part of my team. Proud to have trained with these men. Proud to have been able to sharpen my skills alongside this crop of eventual black belts. It was inspiring, and you bet I shed some man tears.

 

What I Learned About Myself

That’s a tough one. I really believe that I am a completely different person since I began training at OJJA (for the better, of course!) That said, when I think about what I learned most about myself is my love for teaching and coaching. I didn’t realize this until the start of my second to last semester of college; August 2016 or so. I returned from a summer of jiu jitsu and climbing, eager to rejoin the ranks and get back into the swing of training with my home gym. It’s important to mention that, while I was home from college for the summer and the winter, I continued training at a gym not too far from my house. In fact, I mentioned this gym in my first blog post as the gym my older brother, Dan, started training at. This school is now a Tony Passos affiliate, and anyone who has trained with Tony Passos knows that he’s very concept-heavy. Fewer moves, more concepts. This was invaluable to my growth in jiu jitsu, and I’ll talk more about this in a later post. For now, I’ll say that, upon returning to college last semester, my experience at both gyms, combined with my place as a higher ranking blue belt, led a few white belts seeking me out for tips and tricks. They’d ask about particular armbar setups I’d been using, open guard concepts, how to stay heavy on top/escape from bottom, etc. I didn’t hesitate. This “coaching” (a term I use loosely) status continued to grow throughout the semester, and I found myself coaching many of my teammates in tournaments over the last few months.

 

In February 2017, I had a superfight for Global Grappling League up in Ithaca, New York. The fight was at night, but during the day a tournament was held. Before the event, Matt asked me if I’d be willing to help coach the guys competing at the tourney. Again: didn’t even hesitate. To my surprise, I ended up coaching every competitor of ours that day, with all of them making the podium in one way or another. I’d never really felt that type of pride until then.

My crew of easily coachable teammates. Loved the feeling of having them listen to me, and respect me enough to take my advice to heart!

 

A few weeks later, one of the seasoned white belts, Jude, asked me to coach him at the upcoming NAGA Albany tournament. This was an honor. Jude and I have always had a strange relationship; him being a high school junior, he always has some form of sass to sling my way. He’s a 10th Planet Fanatic; he actually ran into Keenan Cornelius in the bathroom after his loss to Gordon Ryan at Grappling Industries, and ACTUALLY ASKED HIM, “Hey, that was a really great match. Why didn’t you use more rubber guard?” Need I say more about his 17 year-old sassiness? I, on the other hand, am an open guard, gi-oriented jiu jitsu aficionado. So, to have my sassy teammate request me to coach him was a big deal. I spent the whole day coaching him: warming him up, coaching from the sidelines, drilling beforehand, etc. He took Gold in the Gi and Silver in NoGi. 

@JudeJitsu rocking his gold medal and 10th Planet sign. We had some choice words about that sign, and we sure made him pay the following Monday during rounds.

 

Competing

On the subject of coaching, I need to briefly say how training at OJJA really changed my outlook on competition. I was never the most athletic kid in high school; I powerlifted, but hated organized sports. I never would’ve imagined that at 21 years-old I’d been winning blue belt superfights, competing on an international scale, coaching teammates, etc. I came to love competition at Oneonta Jiu Jitsu. I truly believe that competing in jiu jitsu, while not for everyone, is an invaluable part to growing in not just jiu jitsu, but in life. 

 

Dedication

Training at OJJA taught me the invaluable skill of dedicating myself to something fully. I was lucky enough to have training partners who called me out when I missed a day of training. I hope to find a gym someday that creates this type of atmosphere where everyone holds each other accountable for their goals!

 

What Did I Love Most?

Honestly? I loved how unassuming our gym was. To anyone on the outside, it’s a nitty and gritty. But to us? It’s home. Not only is it home, but we tear it up on the competition scene from this home. Ben Dixon, a new purple belt, took Gold at NoGi Pan Ams in 2015. Chris Callagy competes in more or less every tournament he finds. Harley Davis, through his connections with Grappling Industries, has paved the way for OJJA and their relationship with the budding organization. Jude tears up grown men in the adult division as a teenager. We’ve got medals from more or less every tournament scene in the Northeast hanging from our rafters, and belts hanging everywhere (NAGA, IBJJF, GGL, Newbreed, Grappling Industries, etc.)

 

Just a small part of our “Wall of Experience”

 

Special Thanks and Shoutouts

I’m not sure if they’ll read this, but there’s a ton of people I could thanks for getting me to this point. Without OJJA, I wouldn’t be writing this post for BJJGlobetrotters. I’d never have gotten sponsorships, superfights, medals, and, most of all, the confidence to be comfortable with discomfort. Rolling and training and drilling with everyone at OJJA has made me the man I am today, and I can’t imagine my life without it. 

 

Matt: Thank you for coaching me and teaching me for these past four years. You’ve built an amazing community at the gym, and we wouldn’t be anywhere near what we are without you. 

Wyatt: Thank you for exposing me to, and challenging me with, the NoGi side of jiu jitsu. I’ll take your wresting wisdom on my further endeavors. Sorry I never got to do that magic show!

Harley and John: Thank you for taking me under your wings during my first few months at the gym. Having training partners like you is why people stick around. 

Ben and Tank: Thank you for challenging me. Plain and simple. I had my hardest rolls with you two. 

Croteau and Yuri: My blue belt brothers. Croteau, I’ll miss your bald-man commentary and our backhanded compliments. Yuri, I’ll never, EVER miss your leg locks. 

Jude: Keep training, fill my shoes.

Leonardo: You’re gonna go far, my friend. Keep training and get those blues!

Heather, Felicia, Christine: Thank you for always rolling with me, even though I’m like a puppy who doesn’t know his own strength. You guys are the core of our female presence at the gym. 

To Oneonta Jiu Jitsu Academy: Thank you for the laughs, the frustration, the pain, the injuries, the bumps and bruises, the memories, and the like. Thank you for being there when I was having panic attacks at midnight and needed somewhere to go relieve the stress. Thank you for being my family. I love you all!

 

 

My crew; spy my bald head! This was taken after the Purple Belt Test last month. This was the last time I would ever receive a promotion from OJJA. Love these people!

 

The last class crew. Definitely a bunch of people missing, but doesn’t change a thing. Love these guys. Thanks for the memories, fellas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Competing in RIo

I saw an add in Facebook about a competition in Rio, short after I signed up for it, because I wanted to compete her in Rio. First obstacle, I could not pay when I signed up and because of my lack of any Portuguese I had no plan about the payment I just read something about bank. That is why I asked someone in the Gym, he told me I can pay it at a shop in Copacabana but it has to be today. I went there and paid my fee, so I was listed in the athletes list of the competition.

 

So far so good. I checked my weight on a scale in a pharmacy and it looked fine.  We went there, I changed, I stepped on their scale, was 1 kilo to heavy and I was like: What the fuck, I was never that heavy in my life how could that happen. Could not loss 1 kilo in this time, a friend of me speak with the head organiser, they let me do a friendly fight against another competitor. At least I had at least a fight, but still I was pretty upset about myself, never happened to me before that I could not make weight.

Anyway my fight was okay, lost by 2 points because when I pulled guard in the last 15 seconds he kicked my leg. Obvious not my tournament at all but you learn always something if you step on the mats or this time if you step on the scale. 

Now back to training and improving for the next one.

And then it snowed……

I wasn’t going for a cliff-hanger, I was having technical problems with the blog. The guys at BJJ Globetrotter who generously host the blog were off doing Jiu Jitsu, surfing, and running a week long BJJ and surf camp. I’d love to go and do one of those one of these days. Maybe, after all of this hiking and watching Jen hike is done, she’ll feel obligated and let me go. Or, as usual, I’ll just go, and she’ll gladly have some time off to watch trashy T.V. and have popcorn or pie for dinner. 

But it did snow, for a couple of days. It snowed on me, in my trailer, which was fine, and actually quite beautiful. It snowed on Jen, in her tent, which was expected, but not awesome. Especially the part where she’d forgotten to bring her tent poles. 

Jen and I have had this ongoing debate about ultra-light vs. not-so-light backpacking. She wants everything as light as possible, of course, since she has to carry it. I want things to work and not be a hassle and not break, and since I’m heavier myself, I worry less about the ounces. Her backpack and her sleeping bag are ridiculously light, made from some kind of spider silk or titanium fabric. They’re made by http://www.zpacks.com/ and it’s good stuff. It works, the company has good customer service, etc. Her tent, however, is a point of contention. 

It is also made by z-packs, this is one of those items where I think light has sacrificed too much. You use your walking poles to set the thing up, and there’s a fair bit of driving in stakes and adjusting lines and the whole thing is complicated, and well, I don’t like it. I would prefer Jen lug around a heavier tent which has its’ own poles and will stand on its’ own without all the mucking about with engineering. Since I’m her husband I worry about her, and since I’m a man, I like to be right about things, especially about manly things like traipsing about in the wilderness. Even though I do much less of it than Jen, being a man and growing a beard makes my opinion on these things carry more weight, much like  I do. You know, some things make less sense when you say them out loud, or write them in a blog. 

Irregardless (which is not a word, I know, but I like it), Jen has this ultralight tent, but she got one that is a little more sturdy since there are some poles in addition to the trekking poles and all that string, but she forgot them in the trailer. If the weather is nice, it’s not a problem. If the weather decides to put a bunch of heavy snow on your tent, it causes problems. And makes everything you own, and need to wear, or sleep in, wet. 

After taking a few days off, hiking across the ugly dessert corridor, seeing some beautiful sights, Jen decided that between being all wet, and her feet not having healed up, maybe it was time to reset and dry off, so I picked her up, and she spent the night with me and the boys, and babied Marley, who is recovering nicely. 

First, she had some milestones to accomplish, so as soon as the weather cleared, and her gear had dried, she was back at it for a few more. She hiked back up into the hills, this time on the other side of the Coachella valley. She hiked up out of the valley, past a huge windmill farm, where she shared the sunset with the moon, and a lot of bats. Bats are cool.

She hiked above the clouds that were threatening to come back in and rain and snow some more. 

She hiked towards the next big climb, after having dropped thousands of feet of gain.

She hiked past these beautiful flowers, which she is convinced is the notorious poodle dog bush. 

which looks more like this

but she doesn’t care and is avoiding all purple flowers for now. 

She hiked past a rock that looks either like a frog or a brain, or maybe a giant frog brain, not really sure.

and she hiked all the way to mile 250. Yep, 250!

And what was I doing all this time? Well, being awesome and supportive and opinionated, and doing some Jiu Jitsu of course. 

I had to head down the hill for a vet appointment, where Marley got his drain tube taken out. He’s doing great, no sign of infection, and he looks and feels like nothing happened. Except where they had to do a little hair cutting to get at his stitches. He feels great, but he looks a little off I think. 

I also had a chance to roll in Yucaipa. Yep, that’s what I said. Not only that, but I had options. There were three gyms in this little town at the base of the mountains. I chose the very nice but unfortunately named BloodSpiller BJJ. http://www.cjjfsocal.com/index.html

The class was being taught by a purple belt, who did a good job on a half-guard escape. Mostly white and a couple of blue belts in the small, clean gym. Very welcoming of course. After class the instructor asked me to roll, suggesting that we keep it playful. That means a lot of things to a lot of people, of course, and this was a prime example. We slap hands, fist bump, and I kind of casually slide into a buzz saw. Now, this guy was young, smaller than I by about ten or twenty pounds, but damn he was strong and quick. He also, let us be clear, was NOT being a dick, or going all world championship match on me, but his “playful” involved a lot more pretty hard choking than my “playful.” He got on top, and I tried to survive and escape, and keep his damn hands out of my collars and off my throat. I would like to say that after about ten minutes of this, he gave up on choking me. Which is true, but only because my choke defense eventually gave him a Kimura, which I tapped to. 

It was a really good roll, and I think he wanted to test his Purple level against mine, since he probably rolls only with the newer students, and his black belt, Aaron “BloodSpiller” Miller, whom I didn’t meet. Funny, of course, because I did talk to him on the phone, and he sounded about as nice a guy as you could want. However, I’m not sure I’d want to roll against a guy like that as my primary opponent. It’ll make you better, if you don’t quit, which you’ll want to. 

I headed back up the hill, and picked Jen up at mile 250, and we had a little celebration. 

As I’d mentioned, I was being my usual awesome supportive self. That’s a giant red velvet cupcake, with the “250” in icing on it, which I picked up special for Jen. 

I also had a bunch of cookies to share with other hikers to help them celebrate, but only one guys showed up. I could neither remember or pronounce his name, since he was Hungarian, but it was the Hungarian equivalent of Paul, or so I told myself. He had a cookie, hung around politely for a while, and hiked on. 

Jen came back to the trailer with me, now parked at Barton Flats on the Angeles Crest highway near Big Bear, and rested up. Her blisters were still killing her, not really healing, and it was time. We had an intervention, and she broke up with her bad boyfriend boots, for now. We drove into the smog, found an REI, and got her some new boots, some Chinese food, and a diet Pepsi. 

For now, Jen is going to let her feet heal. We’re taking a few days off, heading to the beach, and holing up in a VRBO in Dana Point. 

Tap waters and underground rivers

“Is it ok to drink the tap-water here?”

“Yes, of course it is,’ replied Emma, the imposing Croatian purple-belt who ran the session, ‘the water here is the best in all the Balkans!’ Paradoxically, I would hear this statement in most gyms and hostels I visited across the region.

Whilst I cannot honestly assess whether or not Croatian water was that water I’d always been searching for, I can say that the training session at the Lotus BJJ academy in Rijeka was just what I wanted: intense, diverse (in people’s’ skills) and, most of all, extremely welcoming. Just like with the arms race on water, Balkan states seem locked in an upward spiral of generosity. The deeper I go into former Yugoslavia, the more friendly and warm the people seem. The handshakes at the end of the session said it all. Maybe in this part of the world people shake hands more strongly, but with those beaming Croatian smiles in their eyes and the firm grasp and clasp, it felt as if we’d been there for days, not the hour and a half we had actually spent there.

Me, Emma and Milos

 

Myself, Milos and Taja, another member of the club, had popped over for a day-trip to Rijeka from Koper, as it’s only about a two hour drive. After the session we wandered a bit around the port and then sat ourselves down at a seafront restaurant, where I proceeded to stuff my face with some of the best calamari and polenta I’d ever trained for. On the way back we stopped for another drink in Opatia, a seaside resort-town that Milos assures me was “the Monte Carlo of Yugoslavia” back in the day. The fancy bars, Mediterranean vibe and ubiquitous gambling venues echo his statement. Although my phone was dead and I have no photos, picture a night-time coast folding into a corner (Rijeka and Opatia are on the corner where the central Croatian coastline meets the heart-shaped bulge of Istria) littered with the lights of several Croatian towns. Milos informs me that, across the sparkling sea, one of the islands is infamous for having been the prison for Tito’s political prisoners.

There are people out tonight, but it’s still quiet: the summer onslaught of Brits getting shitfaced and asking where exactly the scenes from Game of Thrones were filmed is yet to begin; Croatian people can still enjoy their coastline in some peace, for now.

On the way back, due to Milos’ excellent navigation skills and a fog drifting over Istria, we took a very long route back to Koper. I think I was the only one in the car who was grateful, pressing my face against the window and staring out into the eery Karst landscape and wondering why I didn’t bring my charger with me.

The next day we have one more training session, in Koper (this time with a good turnout of around 10 people; barbecue weather had just ended). The following day we’d all be departing Koper to go briefly to Ljubljana and Zagreb, to train at Bojan Mirkovich’s academy, Milos’ instructor. At night I puttered about, took a long walk and made my goodbyes to the old place. Despite the awkward sleeping conditions and the initial cold, I had enjoyed living like a monk, on the floor, next to the training area. I hope I get to do it again.

 

My plan for the departure day was to set off earlier, by bus, and stop to see the Skoncja Caves near Divaca. The Karst region of western Slovenia is built of long stretches of limestone, perfect for the formation of cave-systems. Postojna is the typical tourist destination, being so large that it can accommodate a inner train system, but given its steep €30 fee, I decided to go for the half-the-price, smaller cousin at Skoncja, and hoping not to be disappointed. I wasn’t.

Road near Divaca

After I dropped off the coach at Divaca I asked some of the locals, in a mixture of pidgin English and improvised sign-language, where to go for the caves. Eventually, after frantically pacing around some roads I found the pathway leading to the caves (marked by tiny, discoloured signposts the size of my foot. As I passed the last village and went into the forest behind I encountered more and more reassuring signposts. Although the signs were about 500 metres apart from each other, they all repeated: “Skoncja Caves – 15 minutes”, as though it remained eternally distant, no matter the effort I made. I smell lazy signposting.

Path to the caves

As I’m walking through the glade I hear a faint stream. Nope, it’s probably a small river actually. Ok, maybe a middle-size one … with a small waterfall. A few seconds later, there’s a clearing in the woods and …

… I find it. The first part of the cave system. This massive eye-gouge in the Earth was initially part of the caves, until it collapsed in the 19th century and opened up the caves to Austro-Italian explorers. Checking my maps I can see that the cluster of houses (the term “village” feels a bit too permanent for this dangerously placed location) is indeed, Skoncja. I skip along and find the tourist centre, naturally filling with people, and get onto the first tour.

Unfortunately most of the tour was photography-restricted, so I had to take a lot of photos on the sly, and most of them turned out, well … shit. Except for this one, which doesn’t convey half the wonder and amazement I felt being inside this gateway to hell:

 

The picture above was of only one of the caverns. All in all, the cave was large enough to swallow a block of flats, at least 100 metres in height, complete with a “Bridge of Moria” style path across a narrow ravine placed across a raging stream. My sense of wonder actually managed to overcome my fear of heights and I peered over, into the abyss where sharp rocks had claimed several explorers a century ago.

I get picked up by Milos and Taja back in Divaca. Along the road, we discuss the Slovenian economy (not a cheery topic, I’m afraid) and we engaged in the time-honoured tradition of exchanging swear words in each other’s languages. On that note, I was pleased to find out we had some in common, between Romanian and Slovenian. On the downside, it does explain why I got some indignant stares from old ladies in a bus stop when I cursed a vending machine that wouldn’t give me change. Oops.

Some photos taken exiting the caves – these were the few that came out alright

We went briefly to Ljubljana, but we only had time for half an hour, so we sauntered a bit about the city centre and had a coffee.

We hadn’t suffered a delay at the border yet and that day our luck ran out. We were stuck for some time. I’ll spare the details of crossing the border, but here are some bullet points from my notebook (bear in mind these are the inner ramblings of a tired, thirsty traveller awaiting sunstroke while his door window can’t open):

  • there’s a chance we might miss training; the line is long. I’m staring at my passport photo and realizing that one of my eyes is off center and it shows, somewhat.
  • I wonder how the geography here affected the isolation of villages in the area …
  • I have some postcards for my grandparents that I forgot to send. They’re from … Avignon, France, feck. I’m a terrible grandson.
  • Why are they still playing Tina Turner on the radio??
  • And we’re through!!

 

We made it to training in outer Zagreb just in time … to be half an hour late. No matter, we warm up quickly, shake hands (again, firm and friendly clasps) with all and with the black-belt, Bojan. He’s a smiling mountain of a man. He shouts and starts the long rounds of drilling that last till the end of training. Our starting position is standing-guard, alternating who gets to begin in reverse piggy-back. Being fresh, we start alright, even someone who is as much of a novice to gi as me. But stamina wears down quickly with this one, and the several times that Bojan himself jumped onto my hips gave me a slight feeling of dread. No matter, for that finished quickly every time when he manacled my limbs and lapels into discomfort I hadn’t yet experienced. This was definitely a step-up in skill from the previous gyms, and I learned even more from those exhausting rounds.

 

Then came my favourite part of the evening. After a satisfying training session we’re all queuing for the showers. I have four times the luggage of anyone, since I have two backpacks and my gi-bag, and Milos asks around if anyone can help me find my hostel. You’d think that tired, busy Croatians would reply with some sloth, but no. When that question rang out, a forest of naked Croatian men jumped on me, demanding:

“Where is your hostel? Do you know the tram system?”

“What’s the address? Have you been here before?”

“It’s free after a certain hour, I’m pretty sure-”

“What?! Haha, don’t listen to this guy, it’s cheap anyway, you can buy from the driver …”

in quick succession. All this time I’m frantically trying to answer their questions and find the damn email with the address in my inbox. And clutching at my shower items.

 

One of the guys, a friendly, bearded purple-belt, offers to take me to tram stop and waits for me to finish showering. I’ve forgotten his name and only remember that he was a petroleum engineer (to you, good sir, hvala!). He walks me over, inquiring about my travels and telling me about the club. When we get to the stop he assures himself that I know which stop I have to get off at.

 

He asks me if I have enough kunas (I needed 4). As I begin to fumble around my pocket, I don’t have two seconds before he shoots his hand into his wallet and produces a 5 kuna coin. before my dumbstruck mouth even manages to articulate “Oh … plea-”, he shoves it into my hand and tells me not to worry.

 

We had dinner with Bojan and a friend of his at a damn good Bosnian restaurant in the area. I don’t wish for other globetrotters to come and exploit local generosity, but I have to state, with full gratefulness, that Bojan paid the bill, for his friends and included me as well. By this point in my travels my ability to absorb hospitality was rendering me stupid. Later on I sat on the tram and felt annoyed that 9 years of living in Britain had rendered me incapable of not feeling awkward and flabbergasted at these gestures. Such warm people-

-And even then, the Balkan spirit would not leave me alone: as it became obvious that I was confused about where I had to go and pay on the tram, a complete stranger came over and helped me direct my kunas in the right direction. That was generosity’s way of signing its name and saying “Welcome to Zagreb”. It’s too much I thought, I’m happily going to my hostel to collapse right now. I’ll write next about Zagreb and why it’s so beautiful, and, most importantly, about the people here.